Thread: Topmount T3/T4 setups and Radiators

Here is my question

I have been looking for a reason to "upgrade" my radiator due to my forseable heat management issues (which I do not currently have, but after a few lapping days, I am pretty sure, its going to be an issue.......I just have a "hunch" ).

Now, I am looking to "atleast" upgrade to a more durable all metal radiator, and I am worried about fitment issues (I am not looking to hack into anything FWIW..........)

Can anyone enlighten me on options for a proper upgrade?? I am also looking for pictures to relate to for fitment

Setup:
B14 (SR20DE)
T3/T04 Garrett turbo
Protech top mount Manifold
Stock radiator with 2 10" slim fans mounted as pushers
NO AC or condenser (so I have a little room to spare)

I would not mind to upgrade to a larger core at this point for the added insurance with a price cap of circa $250 (as long as its a basic "drop in")

Thanks

i ran a full size koyo in my nx2000. ran a 60 trim t3/t4, on a protec log. slim radiator fans set up for a pusher setup....made some brackets for them IN FRONT of the radiator, got sick of the stupid zip tie things folks use.....every time i worked on anything, radiator had to come out, and that ment the fans did too. i recomend making brackets, seems like a simple thing, makes life seriously easier, even if its just needed one time. Also, clearance was tight between the turbo/radiator, but it worked.

Few of my friends have a koyo/godspeed/mishimoto radiators with log manifolds and t3t4 turbos. Plenty room out front.

I run a koyo on my setup with 2 10" slim pusher fans. I have a el bottom mount manifold with a gt3071r. Its a tight fit. So I made the radiator support removable so I could just pull the radiator out when i needed to work on the setup.

As far as I know, the radiator is mounted differently between the B13/NX chassis and the B14 chassis so I am a bit skeptical about comparing the 2 chassis. So my question to the above comments (sans crz), are you folks talking about B13 or B14 chassis

Does anyone have pics of thier setup??

I am running a t3.t4 setup with log manifold in my gtir , i am also running a mishimoto half rad as i have no room whats so ever to run a full rad, this is because of my water to air setup , i have had no problems so far running a half rad with a puller fan and a pusher fan on the opposite side of the water to air intercooler. if you dont want to hack up your rad support try it out and see how it holds up with your setup.

Unfortunately, since this car is setup for open track days, a half sized radiator is currently not an option I want to pursue. With 20 min sessions, especially at a track like VIR with long back and front straights, I am very skeptical of half sized radiators (and just because the Honda boys get away with it, this does not necessarily translate to the Nissan chassis).

Plus, I am not looking to re-arrange my cooling pipes either........Just a simple increased core sized radiator upgrade.
Thanks for the suggestion NX!!

Nx, is your car setup for drag/street, autox or open track days, ??

Anyone else care to chime in?? With pics hopefully??

I drag and daily my 200sx with a civic dual core half size. I run between 200-225 on 115 degree days. I drive this car about 1100 miles per week and have no heating issues.

I am putting a Koyo in my B14. The tubular manifold leaves very little room to work with, so I must relocate the radiator slightly more forward by doing some modification. This means, no hood latch, cut out the rad support, need hood pins etc.

The koyo may fit, but i requires extra work when you run larger tubular setups. But when it is all said and done, the engine should be hard pressed to overheat.

Projects like mine take some time to get just right. Spend the time and money wisely and you get a more rewarding, and reliable, setup.

Bust out the tape measure, that is the only way to know for sure.

Custom rads are as cheap as most Koyos and can be better at cooling, if you are looking in the right places.

If you have the space Coheed said it. Just find the right sized rad then push the rad forward to where the hood latch is.