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Thread: Innovate LC1 wideband issues. Can anyone help??

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Posts: 31-38 of 38
2011-07-15 23:17:32
#31
Ben I measured the voltage at the cigarette lighter fuse panel under the drive side dash (where the OBD2 com port is) and it measured 0.2*** VOlts (and that is ONLY if one end of my voltmeter is connected to it........... )

Anyways, I went ahead and hooked it up to an independent power source and the pictures are below. As can be seen
1) Blue and white wire are wired together and then plugged into the negative port of my power supply using the green wire
2) The red wire goes directly to the positive port of my power supply using a red wire extension

I went through the start procedure (on for 10 secs with sensor unplugged, turn off, then turned on again for 2 mins waiting for warm period)

And unfortunately, nothing.
Also, I tried to wire up the LED as per instructions and nothing

Can anyone give me a quick rundown of how to wire this up with my independend power supply (inclusive of LED) to make sure I am actually doing this correctly??

Thanks. If you need more pics, let me know

2011-07-16 06:17:49
#32
Needs to be 12V at least for a start, not 8.28 volts. Did you turn it up? or was that the voltage you were trying to run it at ? Absolutely minimu 11.5 volts, and if the unit senes the voltage is too low (but enough for the unit to power up), you'll get a 9 flash error code.
2011-07-16 13:15:04
#33
I turned it up to 12V. This was just a photo to show if this was wired up correctly.

Question: LEd wire up. How would you go about it if I was to include it in my setup??
2011-07-28 20:18:10
#34
Update:

As I suspected, it looks the controller/sensor itself was the issue. The last test performed was to remove the O2 sensor from the harness, and while hooked up to a 12V power source take a ammeter and hook it up to the prongs in the housing to check voltage. Surely enough, the prongs themselves were receiving/sending 12 Volts. I also hooked up the ammeter to the calibration prongs, and saw less than 5 Volts (the exact number escapes me at the moment)

Regardless the fix: A whole new setup (Thanks to fantastic local SR20 guru, Keo)!! But, truth be told, I would probably not go with this setup in the future just because of the relatively massive amount of wire involved which has to be tied together. Just makes for an unnecessarily difficult install, period. The way I see it, the more wires you have, the more ways there are for things to go wrong. Chasing bad grounds, loose wires or shorts just becomes a much more tedious process

Below is a picture hooked up to an independent power supply. Time willing, I will try to get it setup in the car this weekend.

Cheers
Last edited by Boostlee on 2011-07-28 at 20-23-29.
2011-07-28 20:26:49
#35
Sorry for all your troubles man. You're not out the price of two of these now are you?
2011-07-28 20:35:45
#36
^^^^ Well, sort of...........I will explain below

The first was purchased from a Member on Honda-Tech. When the packaged arrived at my house, USPS had inadvertently (or just plain negligence grrrrrr) completely destroyed the package!! Well, they repackaged it, and left me a "oh we are sorry blah blah blah" BS note!!

Me, being as naive as I am, just took a bunch of pictures for reference and book keeping and figured the sensor/controller would still be in good working condition (bad assumption as low susceptibility to heat damage in the engine bay does not necessarily translate to robustness). Well, fast forward 3 months (busy enjoying life, school, work, etc).........And that is where I was with previous setup. It didn't dawn on me to actually utilize an independent power supply until the issue with the wideband not working cropped up. After going through all the checks, I just summed it up to a combination of many things which led to an issue and called it a day (who knows, the member could have sold me a defective sensor as well.........too many "what ifs" for me to care at this point or do anything at this point regardless).

So, yes, I am out a used LC1 unfortunately. But I will end up just posting it on here for sale, as if the O2 sensor itself is still in good working condition (which I will check by connecting it with the new setup) it will still be worth a few dollars
2011-07-28 20:48:05
#37
Sucks.
2011-07-29 21:56:33
#38
Guru? ha, more like a Noob with lots of luck!
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