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Thread: Destroying Clutches for some reason

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Posts: 11-20 of 30
2011-06-13 20:51:02
#11
See if Greg V. can get you some alignment dowels (there are two of them). Otherwise get some rod stock (stainless steel is very strong) of the correct diameter (you'll want it to be metric and really the correct diameter) and just cut your own. Your clutch problems are likely from misalignment of the transmission. The bolts allow a lot (1mm+) of misalignment.

For the clutch, I'd do a 6-puck sprung at the most. I'd first try to find a full-face combined with a PP that would let you handle 300 WTQ. But that's what I keep telling everyone and no one seems to want to force the clutch companies to give us something usable.
2011-06-13 20:57:28
#12
Sorry, newb to clutches. Is this a full face, or what's a full-face disc?
2011-06-13 21:44:32
#13
Originally Posted by Sith
i'm skeptical about ACT cause i've popped springs out on my old maxima. And stripped the splines out of a 6puck on the sentra!

BTW you still running the P11 you bought from me? Wish i still had it i would put it in!


with the newer updated yellow springs?
2011-06-13 21:59:27
#14
Originally Posted by BenFenner
See if Greg V. can get you some alignment dowels (there are two of them). Otherwise get some rod stock (stainless steel is very strong) of the correct diameter (you'll want it to be metric and really the correct diameter) and just cut your own. Your clutch problems are likely from misalignment of the transmission. The bolts allow a lot (1mm+) of misalignment.



Hopefully I dont have these clutch issues, When I went to assemble the new motor / trans I noticed I only had 1 dowel... DOH the other was in my old motor and I forgot it. Still lined up pretty dead nuts with the 1 dowel..

Originally Posted by BenFenner

For the clutch, I'd do a 6-puck sprung at the most. I'd first try to find a full-face combined with a PP that would let you handle 300 WTQ. But that's what I keep telling everyone and no one seems to want to force the clutch companies to give us something usable.


For a T25 I went with the above ( ACT 6 Puck Sprung / JWT PP ) B15 disk was great for NA and prob for stock boost T25. It should serve you well too.

I havent used it yet but I was told its a nice setup with a little room to grow into and will take some abuse with slicks. Best of luck.
2011-06-13 22:07:51
#15
Originally Posted by mirrortints
Sorry, newb to clutches. Is this a full face, or what's a full-face disc?
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l300/mirrortints/clutch.jpg
Yes that is a full faced clutch.

Originally Posted by QUiKSR20
Hopefully I dont have these clutch issues, When I went to assemble the new motor / trans I noticed I only had 1 dowel.
1 dowel is as good as no dowels.
2011-06-13 22:10:48
#16
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Yes that is a full faced clutch.

1 dowel is as good as no dowels.


UGHH well looks like ill be separating my new setup. Its bolted in the car but no wiring / fluids / axels etc have been installed. Def dont want to break anything over a cheap ass part. Time to pull apart and throw in a 2nd dowel, Ive been thinking about this for the last few days. This thread reassured me that I have to pull it apart.
Last edited by QUiKSR20 on 2011-06-13 at 22-42-38.
2011-06-13 23:36:58
#17
Il put in an order with greg soon. Hope he can get the dowels. What's your opinions on a jwt flywheel? Bad for boost or what?
2011-06-13 23:38:21
#18
Not sure I have a 10lb chro-moly JUN that worked great all motor but I havent tried it on a turbo setup.
2011-06-13 23:43:17
#19
Originally Posted by BenFenner
Yes that is a full faced clutch.


That's a south bend stage 3 rated at about 350wtq. Seems to meet the criteria.
2011-06-14 00:48:26
#20
mirrortints, you have pics of the other side of the clutch? Does it look the same?

If so, I need to start recommending that clutch/pp combo.
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