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Thread: Boiling coolant

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Posts: 21-30 of 63
2011-06-06 17:28:16
#21
the only headgasket
2011-06-06 19:01:33
#22
my car does the boiling thing but only when it's hot or i don't top the water off at least once a week...is it normal to lose a little water out of the cooling system? it's not leaking and the oil isn't getting watered down so i'm guessing it's getting evaporated by the turbo heat...i got a t25 BB det...intake/exhaust/UD pullys....any ideas???
2011-06-06 20:52:09
#23
Originally Posted by boomstickracing
my car does the boiling thing but only when it's hot or i don't top the water off at least once a week...is it normal to lose a little water out of the cooling system? it's not leaking and the oil isn't getting watered down so i'm guessing it's getting evaporated by the turbo heat...i got a t25 BB det...intake/exhaust/UD pullys....any ideas???


not normal. try bleeding the cooling system properly. it will get hot if you have air pockets in the system.
2011-06-06 21:20:24
#24
air pockets would explain what the dash guage did yesterday...from just above normal to full hot and back to normal in like 30 seconds...i gotta get this temp guage in...this dash one just doesn`t tell me enough =( hope it`s not a head gasket
2011-06-06 23:00:33
#25
Originally Posted by boomstickracing
air pockets would explain what the dash guage did yesterday...from just above normal to full hot and back to normal in like 30 seconds...i gotta get this temp guage in...this dash one just doesn`t tell me enough =( hope it`s not a head gasket


the gauge in the dash is a dummy gauge. it takes a 30deg swing in temp for it to move. Try to get the air pockets out by running the car up to normal operating temp and jack the car up before opening the bleeder valve.
2011-06-07 01:59:46
#26
What happened to that list of headgaskets based on power.
and what one is forgiving if you dont want to pull the block and have it resurfaced?
2011-06-07 11:30:17
#27
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
What happened to that list of headgaskets based on power.
and what one is forgiving if you dont want to pull the block and have it resurfaced?


the oem head gasket will be the most forgiving. If you use a 3m yellow roloc disc you can remove the old gasket with out damaging the mating surface. You will still need to check the head and block to make sure they are straight.
2011-06-07 11:44:15
#28
at this point i just want it bandaided to last the rest of the autox season.

B/c if i have to pull the block, id rather just throw in a different engine. (this one has a few bolt holes stripped)
2011-06-07 19:02:20
#29
I'm experiencing some trouble like this right now as well. A few weeks ago I got a big leak in one of the hoses behind the block. I changed both with industrial hoses and the problem was resolved!

But now my watter boils! If I boost it hard for a couple of times the car smeels to coolant right away. This past weekend the watter was so hot that it evaporated and disappeared completely from the radiator (It was not funny when I realized the problem)

The weird thing is that if I re-fill the radiator I don't see any leak. The car just does that when it's hot. I'm using the OEM rad and just one of the OEM fans, I know that is terrible but even today which was a cold morning and I used the highway after 2-3 times of boost the smell started again

Any ideas?
2011-06-07 19:06:17
#30
probably headgasket like mine
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