Thread: New setup and build....Updated 5/25/12...723whp!!!!!!

ok, we will have to see then...and you will notice something right away if 1 pump goes bad...seeing how with id1000's the bfp is 100 you will obviously not obtain that if a pump goes bad...and if you make a pull without watching the afr's or fuel pressure is plain idiocy, and the fuel pressure would obviously fall off as the rev's go up under boost so that would be an instant indication to let off and figure out what the problem is

Very true, yeah im going through all the procautions this time around. Im monitoring and logging fuel pressure as well as everything else this time around during each pull. But again Ill have one of the best in the area as for AEM tuners helping me along and doublechecking everything on the tune before a pull is even made. Ive got a pretty good knowledge of the AEM now but im sure there are little hints and tricks that they know that I dont. So that will be very helpful. Im just gonna make sure all my ducks are in a row before I hit it up. Meaning charging system is working properly (which i had some suspicions about my alt being the most i was getting while running was about 12.9 volts, my ignition should all be good to go and powerful as it has been with the twinfire now that I have the newest box, and fuel system is all functioning properly now that I have the right fpr from Weldon and know how it should function.

Thanks again for your help and advice. All great stuff. The car should be a beast for sure. Cant wait to assemble the motor.

You definitely want to be making more than 13v with the alternator. Injectors are made to run at 13+v. I ran my car for a while w/o the alternator and realized that with the alternator the car ran much smoother and made more power.

yeah i know that, it started crapping out on me the last couple days before hand. Im gonna use a ve or b15 100 amp alternator and should be good to go. It was getting to the point where the alt wasnt keeping up on charging the battery as well. It would be showing 12.9 or so on the AEM the entire time at most but the battery would still drain. All that amperage was being used up with everything running on the car, two pumps, electric water pump, flxalite fan, gauges, headlights, and so on. Just wore it out after soo much use on it. It was an old alternator anyways so im not surprised it went out.

had an electric w/p on mine but the seal went bad and killed the bearings. It was drawing crazy amounts of amperage before it finally gave out. It was blowing a 30 amp fuse in a second. I'm back to good ol' oem now. Meziere offers the seal and bearings for $45 but you have to make a tool to install the seal and bearings at the right height.

my pump is fine, i have it set on the same circuit as my electric fan, both are on a 30 amp fuse and both together havent blown it so i know they are not drawing more than they are supposed to. The fan i believe draws about 9 amps and the wp is about 10 amps. So yeah, good on that

Anyways here is a couple pics of half the harness done. Came out really really good

those chase bays things are mighty expensive, and the tool to put the little pin things on is pricey too, looks good though

Yeah, the pinning of them isnt too hard and the plastic tools they give you are worthless. Need the nice install tool but dont have one so easiest way I found was to just push them in as far as i could and use a bobby pin to push it into the holding clips inside the connector.

Finally finished up the harness and electronics mounting plate made from 1/4" aluminum plate. Came out really nice. I tested all the circuits and all are aligned properly and connectivity is perfect. So should be ready to fire up without issues. I just have two connectors for behind the dash to extend and its done after tidying up with some zip ties.

Here are the pics of the finished harness.









Enjoy

I love the cannon plug thats awesome , it is not to hard either Daniels kits are great sources for the tools