Thread: New setup and build....Updated 5/25/12...723whp!!!!!!

hmm, yeah i was wondering why i dont see a lot more hondas with cf doors in the classes. Interesting. If they dont allow it then I probably will do without.

Also again ill have some parts up for sale when I get home,

GE headstuds, $110 shipped
Bosch 044 with inlet and outlet fittings $190 shipped
Walbro 255 intank $110 shipped

All parts were purchased new in January and only used for a short period of time.

Ill also be pulling out my piston and rod combo from the motor in the car as well and the freshly resurfaced head with BC SS intake valves. I dont know what kind of shape the pistons are in yet but more for the Eagle rods. Ill sell the rods for $240 shipped and if the pistons are in decent shape I have 3 sets of rings for them so just need to get one set to completely have new rings. Hit me up.

Curious: Whats replacing the bosch? Whats the bore on the pistons? And will they work in a DET block?

im replacing my dual pump setup with a single Weldon 1000whp pump and sumping the fuel tank. -10 feed to the pump, -8 feed to the rail and -6 return to the tank.

The pistons are 86.5mm and yes they are de/det pistons no valve notches. Ill see how good of shape they are in. I know for a fact #3 had a couple small nicks on it from a ground strap from the plug bouncing around but nothing deep and it cleaned up just fine with a dremel and smoothing stone bit. So as long as there is still no detonation damage on them which there wasnt before then they should be just fine with a new set of rings. They are my original pistons w/ about 13k miles on them. I had them out and the skirts and everything was perfect. Again I have new rings for 3 of the pistons because when i originally ordered new rings they sent me only 3 and then sent me a new complete set for free. So i had 3 extra sets. I think the rings per pistons are like 25 bucks or so.

LMK if you want the combo of the rods and pistons. If the combo is still good ill sell it for $350. Ill have them out when i get home.

Also selling my ID1000 injectors w/ highport DE/DET/S13 topfeed fuel rail for $420 shipped. Ill post up the for sale thread when I get home wanted to put the word out there for those interested and want to call dibs on some stuff.

Dude, i can't wait to see what you are able to run when your project is done. Def wanna see a dyno chart though.

Its a good thing you were able to fit such small wheels with your six-speed too.

Its gonna be a beast for sure. Im gonna see if I can break the 800whp mark on stock sleeves. Should be able to no problem with the setup im running. Reving to around 10k rpm. Should put me at the worlds highest hp Sentra by far and also hopefully with some good seat time I can get my 1/8th mile shorttrack down to a T. Once that happens and I know the short track is good for 9's ill do a full out pass. I now know a lot of things to just completely avoid doing when out there. Ill have the help of one of the best aem tuners around with tuning the car so Im not worried about the motor, Im building it to be as bullet proof as I possibly can besides sleeves. The rest of the motor will have internals to handle 1000whp if so desired.

My goal is to have the worlds fastest sentra, built and tuned by me. No shop, no sponsors, no nothing. Ill reach my goal. A guy on honda-tech just working on his short track at his local 1/8th mile went from running 10.0 in the 1/4 to 8.70's, completely skipping the 9's. Im hoping to just completely skip the 10's. And if i can get my shorttrack down where it should be, that should not be a problem at all. The entire runs comes down to the short track which is by far the most important. The topend will take care of itself.

Good luck and I know you're overseas and all but can you just wait to pick new numbers out your ass till you've built and run it? Hopes and dreams gets boring after a few years...

its only hopes and dreams if you never reach it. Trust me, i know problems even with the best parts can occur and have occured. So there could be a lot of things hindering it. Its a goal man. Im not gonna throw it out there that its gonna happen like i did before. Its hard dont get me wrong. Ill have the setup to make the numbers as long as nothing serious goes wrong. Im using a setup that has worked well and made insane power on hondas, no reason a Built up VE motor cant do the same as long as the essentials all fall in line.

Im not giving up on my goal. I have the knowledge, skills, and determination to reach them and thats really all it takes. After that its just a matter of time.

You are a mad-man! But I applaud your efforts. I mean, why the hell not. I always see monster Honda's and monster "other cars" so why not a monster Sentra. 800 whp is a lofty goal, especially on stock sleeves, but I wish you luck! Don't let anybody tell you you can't do it, or at least get close to your goal. I just wonder though why you want to attempt this on stock sleeves? Are you trying to avoid the cost of re-sleeving the block or are you just trying to see what stock sleeves will hold? If you are spending a few k on this setup, why not go one step further and have that extra security? Just curious.

Good luck. I look forward to following the build!

Because after some extensive research i have yet to see a stock sleeve sr20 block fail. Was watching 8 and 900whp 240's on stock blocks that have lasted years. There is really no reason to sleeve it. Worst case scenario I crack a stock sleeve but at that level i really doubt it. Im using an stock 86mm bore so i have the most material i possibly can.

I dont know where people got it in their head that sleeves were necessary past 550whp I know i was making well above that, last time out and on a slightly thinner bore and no signs of warping or cracking. So yeah. Its more of a personal goal than anything.

Im looking for the 750-800whp mark, 800whp would be very nice. Again im gonna have all my parts and setup in line to do great things. Its not to say bad things cant and wont happen because been there done that. But if they all go well Ill reach my goals. Plain and simple.

^ Sounds good to me. I'm still a virgin when it comes to turbo so I'm sure I will have many misconceptions re-shaped by knowledgeable turbo guys. I just go off what I read as I have zero hands-on turbo experience. Makes sense though if you're keeping a stock bore that the cylinder walls should be plenty thick.

What are going to use for cooling all that power and heat? Meth injection? Oil Cooler? You planning on using race fuel?