Thread: New setup and build....Updated 5/25/12...723whp!!!!!!

Yeah im not gonna do much more than port match and remove casting and polish on the intake side. Exhaust side however, im gonna port the exit portion just to match the flange as well as remove casting and polish. Other than that the head ports are staying the same size and design.

get a tungsten carbide cutting bit on a dremel and it will eat through anything, I cleaned up the welds on my manifold in seconds using it

DO NOT polish the intake, leave it with an 80 grit finish...if you polish the intake it will not atomize the fuel correctly and will need to be redone, i wouldn't even gasket match the exhaust, the design of the head has set up in a particular valve angle, choke, etc...telling you, leave it alone

what about the intake side of things? Is the ve flange the same as the de? or even close?

Not even close

The ve is way bigger. By far.

Another thing was I had my buddy closely inspect the block because the pictures looked like there was detonation damage but turns out its just carbon buildup and discoloration from the headgasket. The pistons come clean very easily and are in great shape as well as the block.

My buddy is going to be selling the pistons and rods together as well as the 4CW ve crank so if anyone is interested hit me up. Hes gonna clean up the tops of the pistons to get the carbon buildup off, the rods are in great shape as were all the bearings. Crank has no scuffs or marks on it at all and is also in perfect shape.

I really wish I bought it. I just finished cutting mine to shape, what a pitta!



It will be hard to make the exhaust ports bigger will be hard, you will have to figure out how to port it right not to disrupt the flow.



Where did you get it? I have a Tungsten carbide for regular drills that also works on a pneumatic die grinder. I've been using it on my exhaust flange, it works very well! I would love to get one for the Dremel for more precision.




Did you do 80 grit by hand or with a rotary device? I believe I left mine at 80 grit, but I'm wondering if it's too fine still.



Exhaust side I did polish up though.


As for port matching I highly suggest it, especially if you are going to run thermoblok spacers. You create about 1-2mm flow walls around the runner.








DE:


VE:

Well after looking at several honda builds I liked the idea of shortening my intercooler piping by probably about 5 feet or so with a simple solution. I decided Im gonna purchase an SRT4 intercooler with a core size of 24X12X4, total length with endtanks 32X12X4 and chop off the small 2.5" inlet and outlet and open up the hole to 3" and weld on 3" V-band flanges. The dimensions of the intercooler are the same as the one I have now but have the inlet and outlet pointing toward the engine bay at the lower part of the intercooler. This will fit almost perfectly with the front opening of my car. I'll probably have to notch the metal that sits near the radiator on the drivers and passenger side allow the piping to clear without contact but no biggie and in an unseen area. This will literally shorten my intercooler piping by 5-6 feet rather than going around the outside into the front part of the fender well and back around to the intercooler on each side. This will also eliminate 2 more couplers i was going to use and I can make just two single welded pipes and have one coupler on the throttle body and one on the turbo and then the two v-band flanges for the intercooler connection.

This will really clean things up and shorten the intercooler piping which should help with response.

Picture of the intercooler and aluminum v-band flanges.





Piping will be done in matte black and black couplers, black Tial 50mm Q bov and bronze clamps and accents.

gonna be sick!