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Thread: Year 3 no cold idle, checklist help PLEASE!

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Posts: 111-120 of 234
2012-05-23 07:15:23
#111
Originally Posted by 93specv
Starting to sound like a GREAT idea!!! I'd rather it function properly though. What'd you do about the AAC? You leave it or remove it and simply run a hose? Or block that too?


You make a plate in place of the aacv.And cap off the hose on the other end. I did it and it worked great and you set the idle with the trottle screw
2012-05-23 14:04:01
#112
Originally Posted by BoOMbATz
You make a plate in place of the aacv.And cap off the hose on the other end. I did it and it worked great and you set the idle with the trottle screw


Cap off the hose meaning for the AAC?
2012-05-23 15:28:24
#113
Ok, although I get an accurate temp reading from my laptop VS autometer gauge, and the fans turn on at the appropriate time, I'm going to replace the temp sensor with a new one anyway.

Just to verify and confirm, the one wire is meaningless, correct? It's the 2 wire that's important.
2012-05-24 03:34:59
#114
Originally Posted by 93specv
Cap off the hose meaning for the AAC?



Ya thats it
2012-05-24 04:08:21
#115
Dunno if this is relevant but tonight I went to the track. What happened there aside, I was checking for boost leaks at one point with brake clean. To make the car idle, I put a piece of a business card between the TB arm where the dogbone is and the throttle adjust screw. It idled at 1,000 rpm. I first tried with a penny which was too thick creating a 2,500 rpm idle. Before the business card I then tried a dime. The dime brought the idle to 1,500 rpm but the idle surged up and down between 1,000 and 1,500. Relevance??? Smart guys?

No change in idle with the brake clean spraying all hoses, T's, intake manifold, turbo, or couplers.
2012-05-24 20:33:06
#116
Ripped all this out today. Excess hose, t's, and some Mickey mouse crap...warm idle is back! Some hoses replaced with better fitting hoses and shorter more proper lengths. I also switched some routing back to where it was prior to looking under my buddy's hood. Warm idle back but Now rich at 12.5-13. Still no cold idle but when throttled to 1,000rpm the AFR's are lean in the high 16's and 17's. Still no ability to adjust idle via iacv screw.

2012-05-24 20:41:29
#117
Routing recap: where previously tapped, I've since stayed off the brake booster as a source. That hose is solid as it is stock. I've got wastegate -> MBC -> nipple before throttle plate on the TB.
BOV -> nipple after throttle plate on TB
that vac line mentioned early in this thread is on intake pipe after MAF/before turbo -> nipple on intake manifold (when pinched the motor stalls)
FPR and boost gauge t'd -> nipple on TB after throttle plate.

I'm running 555's with z32 MAF so mathematical k-value puts me at 29150. Fuel pressure set at 3 bar, 4 bar doesn't help the idle.

Running calum realtime. New o2, new plugs/wires/cap/rotor/coolant temp sensor/3rd junkyard iacv, spare AAC was rigged open to mimic a cold motor. MAF reground to chassis, proper voltage, tps set at .50, although anywhere from .45-.56 does nothing major.

I noticed the other day when under my car that I routed my turbo coolant lines to Tee into the TB coolant lines. I can't imagine that's it but?

Sound good? Wtf am I missing? Wtf is wrong with my car!
Last edited by 93specv on 2012-05-24 at 20-55-17.
2012-05-24 21:05:25
#118
Have you checked the EGR and charcoal canister vacuum lines?

The only issue with your stuff above that I see is that your boost gauge is sharing source with your FPR. I like to see the FPR with it's own source. And the boost gauge can share with the BOV source. If that is all perfect though, one way or the other, it should not change idle any...

Like I said, I think your "fast idle valve" the hexagon one is not getting a signal, or not working properly. You never said if you saw it working or not.
Your warm idle is all set now?
Last edited by BenFenner on 2013-06-17 at 19-21-54.
2012-05-25 01:25:45
#119
Originally Posted by BenFenner
The only issue with you stuff above that I see is that your boost gauge is sharing source with your FPR. I like to see the FPR with it's own source.
EVERYONE tells me that! Maybe I'll just take care of that in the morning.

Originally Posted by BenFenner
Have you checked the EGR and charcoal canister vacuum lines?

Like I said, I think your "fast idle valve" the hexagon one is not getting a signal, or not working properly. You never said if you saw it working or not.
Your warm idle is all set now?
After todays hose massacre, yes, warm idle is back. EGR? Charcoal canister? LONG GONE and trashed my good man. Although I'm running a USDM head, I'm running an Avenir intake manifold and block. There's nowhere to mount an EGR on a JDM intake manifold. As far as the fast idle solenoid goes I haven't yet manually checked it like I checked the other. Will a multimeter help with that diagnosis? I picked one up the other day. In case you missed it in a previous post, I sourced a 3rd iacv a couple days ago and installed it with no change.
Last edited by 93specv on 2012-05-25 at 01-35-22.
2012-05-25 02:22:52
#120
So I just got home and took an AFR observation. Like I said above, she's fattened up a bit. At idle in my driveway she was sitting at 13.5 AFR. When I put the heat on full blast it fattened up more dropping to 13.0 even. I turned the heat full blast on and off a few times for a greater observation ratio, it was consistant. I didn't wait for tha fans to turn on before exiting my car.
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