Thread: Year 3 no cold idle, checklist help PLEASE!

Had to take a ride, was cooled to 140*F, no idle till warmed. Everything else is now pissah. Once she's warmed, AFR's are mint. WOT is a tad rich as it once was. Blew a coupler last night and come to see the t-bolt was stripped: replaced that. Put a clamp on the boost gauge hose. Other than cold idle everything seems great, better than ever actaully. No affect to cold idle in the tune. Cold idle set at 2,000 RPM in tune, makes no difference. Can't adjust idle speed via tune or iacv. I'm on vaca this week and going to find me an iacv in a junkyard! It's gotta be the iacv, right?

I missed what you're tuning with...

Calum realtime using tunerPro, AEM uego, and conzult for vitals.

I acquired the knowledge and built a pressure tester today. I used a PVC end cap with a car wheel valve stem. I installed it in place of the cone filter and used my bicycle pump which has a built in pressure gauge. I found 3 boost leaks to start, two at couplers and one at the turbo in a most unsuspecting location. The one at the turbo consumed a couple hours of my day to locate. I could hear it and feel it but just couldn't find it. It was venting from an open bolt hole where the OEM wastgate on the turbo housing mounts. After finally determining that hole was the source, I simply thread a bolt and washer in. It was then I took a break and did some more research to learn the #1 cyl piston is suppose to be at TDC, can anyone confirm that? I am yet to be able to build and hold pressure.

However, the car is running like an absolute raped ape!!! On the negative, now once again, she won't idle at all. Before I started the work today, and in running around just this morning for parts, she was idling perfect with a warm motor. I'm just so confused! Every time it's 1 step forward and two steps back.

I'm gathering an iacv/aac from a friend tomorrow off his blown sr20 which is collecting dust. It's a RWD setup from his 240, will that be an issue for me being FWD does anyone know?

Damn, RWD setup for iacv is totally different! Not even an AAC valve! IF this iacv even bolts to my motor ima have to rewire it. What's the worst that can happen? My stupid car doesn't idle? F-it!!!

UPDATE: home now and look to see that there's No way this thing will bolt up! BUT, the solenoids are identical. Gonna just rewire them and swap those over. The solenoids are what's important. The RWD uses one plug for both solenoids whereas my fwd uses 2 plugs, one for each solenoid.

This RWD iacv has coolant that runs through it like the TB and an air line directly to it opposed to fwd where the air line is to the manifold working with the AAC...which I said above the RWD doesn't even have an aac.

Now that you've closed up some boost leaks, you're not getting enough air. You need to back the idle screw out to compensate. Maybe.

Testing the fast idle solenoid would be similar to testing the regular idle solenoid. Make sure it moves when it is supposed to. This thing is on/off so it won't move in slow increments like the normal idle valve.

I thought of that and tried it Ben, no luck. Just did a wheel bearing and now gonna futz with this RWD iacv and see what happens.

What did you mean by mercury?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inch_of_mercury

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pounds_per_square_inch

http://www.convertunits.com/from/inch+of+mercury/to/pounds+per+square+inch

Well only 1 of the 2 solenoids was useable as there were differences. I wired in the "hexagon" shaped solenoid with no result still. F-this shyt!

I still don't know what you're talking about mercury Ben. 10 and 15psi vacuum. My gauge reads vacuum, not mercury.