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Thread: Year 3 no cold idle, checklist help PLEASE!

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Posts: 81-90 of 234
2012-05-17 14:40:49
#81
No, cold idle doesn't exist. It doesn't even begin to struggle in attempt to idle till around 130*F.
After 160* it's still a little bouncy but will idle on it's own. The warmer she gets after 160* the more stable it becomes.

And Now, once again, idle speed cannot be tuned OR adjusted per idle screw on iacv. Idle is also not affected when disconnecting tps OR putting it in timing mode via "base idle adjustment" option in realtime. This all with a warm motor. Once up to operating temp she idles at about 1200rpm. AFR's stay calmly at 14.6-15.2 and then will randomly drop to 13.7 eventually going back to 14.7. My laptop died yesterday when noticing this phenom and I will hopefully monitor in conzult today to see what happened to make the AFR's drop like that. It may simply be drain from the fans, I dunno.

In my tune the idle is set from 2000-800rpm through the temp range.
2012-05-17 14:44:01
#82
1,200 rpm idle when warm is still way too high. I thought you said that was fixed?
2012-05-17 15:11:39
#83
I said the idle smooth out after I found and corrected the boost leak. I don't recall stating the actual rpms.

No matter what I do I can't seem to adjust idle speed whether mechanical or electronically via tune.
I found a link that talks about the TB and ecu. Says the ecu reads the tps, seeing its fully closed to then put it into "idle mode?" I dug out the stock TB off my original motor and the retard spring feels a lot more snappy than what's on my motor. Although I'm ready .50 tps maybe I'll swap springs?
2012-05-17 15:12:18
#84
Link article:
SR20 Setup Tips
2012-05-18 10:00:12
#85
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f310/93specv/08eb6d62.mp4
Last edited by BenFenner on 2012-05-18 at 11-33-23. Reason: Get video to work.
2012-05-18 12:32:57
#86
Dunno why my video above won't post so here it is on YouTube, plus a write up to go with it...



At 4:40am and 40*F air temps she started up and idled. The first two attempts she died then third times the charm. I tapped the throttle and she caught and sat there at 1000rpm, didn't die at any stop signs or red lights. :-D

I feel there are still quirks though.

She is so extremely rich now that she breaks up under load. Where cruising AFR's were spot on under 10psi vac, now it's 15psi. Soon as vac drops to 15psi she immediately goes rich in the 12's and hits 10's even before boost. Also idle AFR's are in the 12's.

This phenom now boggles me as there were no changes to the tune. Wot at least should still be good, I'd think, as that's the only AFR constant for the last 4 years.

Also, the base idle rpms are set to 2000rpm on a cold motor and gradually drop to 800 as it warms. This did not happen.
Last edited by 93specv on 2012-05-18 at 12-36-14.
2012-05-18 12:45:27
#87
10psi of vacuum or 10 inches of mercury? 15psi of vacuum or 15 inches of mercury?

I'm starting to think your "fast idle" valve is not working or getting a signal. The hexagon shaped solenoid on the idle assembly.
Last edited by BenFenner on 2012-05-21 at 19-58-00.
2012-05-18 13:24:41
#88
And we test that how Ben? The same way as before just with that solenoid instead? What do you mean mercury?

I will say that "hexagon" solenoid does have some crud around the wires going into it.
2012-05-19 21:18:25
#89
Ok, so after looking at my buddy's boosted sentra today (civicsuck), things seem to be the most legit as ever....although I still don't know about cold idle now with a warm motor. We'll see in a few hours, it's warm here today so it'll take a minute.
2012-05-19 22:19:35
#90
you have tested for vac leaks right? idk if it helps much but my car idles like asshole when it's cold if the afr's are anywhere near stoich. 12.5:1 she's happy.
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