Thread: Year 3 no cold idle, checklist help PLEASE!

Sounds like we could be in business with the spark plug replacement.

Also, MAF shouldn't be grounded directly to the battery. Nothing really should ever be grounded directly to the battery. You want to ground that MAF to the intake manifold near the ECU grounds somewhere.

Also check to make sure your FPR vacuum line is 100% good.

I saw this on my miata... Pissed me off cause I spent weeks messing with temp correction table and couldn't figure out why I lost idle command.

Negative on the injector/plug/wires test. Got home with a warm motor and just enough idle to test. Pulled one wire at a time, each cyl affected the idle. So with this still potential theory, maybe bad plugs/wired/dizzy all around are at fault. I won't know till the mailman makes my day. Injectors are as old as the build, maybe 24k on them. I highly doubt injectors are at fault.

With the throttle cable idea, are we talking replace the throttle cable all together?

I'm just now further baffled in the last couple days whereas WOT has been the only constant for the last 3 years since my street tune, it's now gone rich on me. 10.0 maybe 10.2 at WOT. Only change was a new o2 installed and it's currently set off in the tune as the motor is running better without it.

I live in NH but reference Boston as any easy location to ID. I use to deliver the cape cod run back before the accident. Now I'm strictly a Boston route.

Loosening the throttle cable a tiny bit would be the solution to the issue wnwright mentioned.

You get a cookie... Or a beer your choice.

I've tried loosening and tightening the throttle cable at the mounting bracket on the valve cover with the 2 nuts

It isn't a random adjustment. Either it gets tight and opens the throttle or it doesn't. Randomly adjusting things makes it more difficult to diagnose issues.

Who said anything about random? Lemme rephrase with my original statement: I tried tightening it AND loosening it with no change.