Thread: Year 3 no cold idle, checklist help PLEASE!

Nismo87SE's link eventually leads here, which is good re-build info: Cold Idle Fix

Your Koyo is the reason you are running cold. It is a well known problem. Get a higher temp thermostat and/or take a piece of sheet metal and block off about half of the radiator so it doesn't get a lot of air flow. Then remove the sheet when you go racing.

I modified the spare that I disassembled to stay open by removing the spring that is what actually seems to hold it shut. For lack of a tight fitting piece of tube to take the place of the AAC...for open loop experimental purposes, this was my best option so as to avoid frustration in an extremely tight area under the motor. With this i hope to rule out the AAC either way. I assembled the spare with rtv last night, couldn't find my paper gasket roll.

I am VERY much anticipating getting home from work. Pray to the Nissan gods for me :-)

:-( nothing :-( I tried it plugged in and unplugged. When she warmed up to temp, idle was not affected as you (ben) said it'd idle fast. I've got the "good" one in the freezer. Previously I only tossed it in for like 10 minutes, the link article says a couple hours. I'm bummed. Doubtful it has any relation but I checked a few things including the fuel pressure...it was a little high and I readjusted to 44psi. Sigh.

Bump so we can try to help 93specv fix his still crappy idle.

he STILL got a crappy idle, 1 yr later! damn

He's having trouble with warm idle now too. He has a low idle when cold, and a high idle when warm. And AFRs are super lean now the entire time.

I'll throw in something to look for on the high idle warm...

I've had the throttle cable housing expand when it gets warm which then tights the slack on the throttle cable and can open the throttle up a little...

1 year later??? Lol!!! Been 4 years battling this issue! 4 years ever since the swap.

Mysteriously lean now at idle and cruise where it was rich back in October when I put the car down for the winter. Only thing changed was the battery in march. NOW, after installing a new o2, where WOT AFR's were spot on regardless of te idle AFRs, wot has fattened up mysteriously. I turned the o2 off in the tune to see no change on the wideband.

Thanks for the bump Ben! If you're ever in the Boston area I wanna shake your hand for all your help, hard work, dedication, and extreme knowledge! You da man!

I am waiting on new plugs in the mail as a step colder wasn't an option in any stores that I called. I will also to wires and dizzy when the plugs get here. I was misinformed and the plugs have twice as much usage as they should. They also look like HELL!

With Bens help, the iacv has been ruled out as culprit. The MAF is clean and grounded directly to the battery. Coolant sensor is fine. All clamps are right, vac hoses look good. I will be testing each cyl for misfire if not tonight than tomorrow night after work.

I stay baffled. Any and all input and suggestions welcomed!

Cape Cod is my home town.

Interesting theory from Nate on the throttle. It's a long shot, but everything needs to be checked at this point. I had someone with a mouse stuck in their TB that slowly developed a higher and higher idle...