Thread: Year 3 no cold idle, checklist help PLEASE!

With the wire routed, I rested the metal surface on the negative terminal ;-)

They both were open the same amount before and after the freezer. After opening it manually by stuffing a flathead in, it would seem neither of them opened at all in the freezer...and were roughly 1/3 open at all. Neither of them seemed to close either.

After taking one apart, I honestly can't see where or what has failed or needs to be cleaned. And yes, from gregV, they are $84 new. I just don't have that money right now to spend on a maybe...even when most everything is pointing in that direction.

With the other one installed, it really seems like it wants to idle. I'm wondering if the problem still doesn't maybe rest in the tune. Where should my AFR be at start up? With my foot on the throttle around 2k while cold and warming her up, AFR is at 14.x and slowly declines (richens) while warming up. Warm at idle she is comfortably rich at and around 12.8-13.3. I've tried bumping k-value and the cold enrichment setting which makes some but little improvement. Maybe it's in the fuel map? I really have NO CLUE on tuning but to myself, and my buddy who tunes, the fuel map looks all screwy! I will take and post a pic tomorrow.

Zacward, I'm fairly certain the hoses are routed properly. I at one point made a trip to the junkyard specifically to investigate and see. What do you mean though, the hose from the BOV?

Easy way to test if a new AAC will fix your problem is to replace the valve with an open hose adapter. Just hook the two hoses up to each other and let the air flow. It will give you a fast idle always, but at least you'll see if it idles well while cold.

I wonder if If you could find a valve to put in there that you can hook up a throttle cable to and adjust it like choke to manually control it...

Body of the valve is not ground, you need to supply ground to the pin in the connector.

I'm not sure if you have a high port or low port but if you can idle good while warm but not while cold, your air regulator might be bad. My car did the same and my IAC % were close to what your getting now. CHeck this link http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/5371-air-regulator.html

Ben, I was thinking the same thing :-)

Cozmo: stupid me, thanks. I'll try again.

Nismo: the first 2 pages will say that I have a highport and we are currently questioning the AAC...but thanks

Unijabnx: hmmmm, I like that idea...if all else fails

Another possible contributing factor I just realized is my motor rarely reaches temps over 160-180* while driving. It only ever reaches 212 to trigger the fans on a warm day in traffic and at stop lights. Running a koyo and oem therm.

And thats in reference to the autometer gauge rigged to the upper radiator hose AND while monitoring in realtime.

With this info, it's obvious my motor is running cool for some reason but why? And is it somehow related I wonder. :-/ sigh

good info in this thread! good luck man, I hate that stupid valve