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Thread: Pulsar Injector Issues

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Posts: 1-10 of 10
2008-03-15 01:15:00
#1
Pulsar Injector Issues
Setup is a 91 SE-R w/ Pulsar 54c SR20. Using stock Pulsar injectors and MAF with a Emanage. Car has been parked several month. Went to start the car after installing a new turbo and Injector 1 & 4 continue to flood the block?? So I changed # 1 & 4 with alternates and same thing. Could the Emanage lose its setting if parked with no power. The engine is getting washed whenever I turn the key. Cant figure it out besides Emanage maybe losing its settings.. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
2008-03-15 17:50:28
#2
Any suggestions fellas?
2008-03-15 20:05:59
#3
Do you have resistors on your wiring harness?
2008-03-15 20:17:11
#4
Believe so
2008-03-15 21:37:52
#5
cause if you just installed GTiR injectors without soldering the resistors on to your harness they wont work properly
2008-03-16 04:30:20
#6
Originally Posted by SR20Raf
cause if you just installed GTiR injectors without soldering the resistors on to your harness they wont work properly


Injectors were functioning great @ 10 psi on my old setup. Their all wired in correct, thanks for the suggestion though.
2008-03-16 15:25:19
#7
Are you getting spark?
2008-03-18 03:14:58
#8
Yeah getting spark jst way to much fuel.
2008-03-18 04:15:02
#9
Have you done the injector test, in that you provide short bursts of DC power direct from the battery? What about switching the harness connectors between injectors? Sounds like the injectors could be stuck?
2008-03-18 05:02:04
#10
Or the E-Manage is ???...

1) My injector wires cracked, right under the injector plugs; maybe you have a short in the injector harness?
Re-Wire the injector loom, just to be safe; then work backwards. Be sure there's no solvant or water crossing the wiring.

The cheapest way to figure it out, is by making certain the wiring / SOLDERING / crimping, etc... are AOK.

Be sure it's 100%, first.

2) Connector integrity is next. Use a meter. Sometimes the connector gets moisture or the lil' orange seal was lost years ago, and then the corrosion issue fouls the connection.

3) Then there's always the bad crimp. Hate to tell you, but sometimes when your crimping 5000 speakers in a Casino ceiling, it sucks when 2% aren't right, (and all the slots and tables are already in place). Bad crimps in your car are not impossible and they are the worst types of failure, because they are intermittent. Sometimes they work for months and then suddenly, the gremlins re-appear. Altered load voltages, screw the ECU signals, and then you get more gremlins.

4) There might be a crumb stuck in two injectors, unless you have a high micron filter to your fuel pump, also. Allowing the car to sit grows crumbs in the fuel injector orifices, and they cause injector jamming. Soak them in solvent and be sure they are clean and pressures are equalized.

Note: I'd swap / inspect with a fine tooth comb, all the wiring; no if and's or buts. There are grounding problems which happen in the looms or connectors which can hide for years and one small change, creates a faulty wiring system.

I find wiring problems in rock and roll lighting rigs, believe me when I suggest the harness, is primary. Then work back from the ECU and be sure there is no mis wired connectors to the injector loom.

If your wiring is good and the connectors cross check, OK; it's the ECU.

Only 2 cylinders wrong, sounds like a chip function error, or it would be across them all.

I'll bet you have a dead short somewhere or a ground issue, where the wiring is being corroded, and bleeding signal to the wiring to those 2 injectors. Might be solder corrosion, if it was manufactured recently. Two bad resistors would make a difference, as well.

5) "Tin Wiskers" are the latest phase of circuitry errors, (unless you are absolutely certain the UCU was manufactured to ISO specs).

The EPA required lead, be replaced in solder, and unless you use straight silver, (and that's not likely if your unit was imported from China or Korea), your close proximity electronics are growing "Stalagmite Bridges of TIN", across the circuitry and the system may be dead-shorting, within the ECU; directly as a result of lead-free solder, without a replacement additive, to insure quality of "Mean Time Between Failure" as in ISO specs and standards.

Lack of lead in the solder is no joke, when you are paying hard dollars for your engine management system. (I run an AEM and own a JWT).

This problem, (not merely an issue), is because the technology to use replacement additives, in mass production of electronics, was not required, when the laws to remove lead, were passed and now enforced.

It's recently, an entire technology sector and boasts a massive development program, throughout the industrial-sector.

There's a whole generation of ECU's and control units, produced with a "less-than-desirable" soldering, and they shall eventually all fail; right on schedule, because of close proximity circuitry.

You get "what you pay for". Racing parts are no different.
There's a reason the JWT ECU is still desirable and the AEM; is so costly.

They are built to an older, (more reliable); standard.

Good luck with your diagnosis! I sincerely hope it's not your ECU.
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