Thread: throttle problem helpp video inside winner gets $40

No not the battery's voltage you want to use a volt o meter thing on the wire that goes to the O2 sensor. If you have an FSM it should cover how to do this test in there. It should have what the voltages should be at in the book.

As for the vac leak test I would pressure test and listen for leaks. The spraying carb cleaner around the running motor test sucks. Especially if your motor is having problems running.

Basically all you do is pull the MAF and the air filter and cap off the intake pipe with a coupler and a PVC pipe cap. Clamp the cap on nice and tight. Then if you have an air compressor find a hose or un used nipple on the intake manifold and run that to the compressor. Pressurize the system to about 15psi or and turn off the compressor and listen and feel for leaks.

If you don't have an air compressor you can use a bicycle pump, or you can modify a hand pump plant sprayer

from the fuel pump signal wire am i supposed to get a voltage or resistance reading? cause im not getting anything..also wor the air regulator have anything to do with it? because thats whats giving me the cold start problem theres no voltage or resistance going to that connector cause its inline with the fuel pump circuit which i bypassed... i will do that leak test tomorrow

I am not sure which fuel pump wire you mean. The ones back by the pump or by the relay/ignition? If your air regulator isn't plugged in that can make your car not run/run-well until the motor gets warmed up. Defiantly fix the air regulator's wiring if you can if only to get the rest of the bugs worked out.

pin 104(black/yellow strip) on the ecu is the fuel pump signal wire that goes to a white connector under the dash then to the fuel pump relay am i supposed to be getting a voltage reading to it?

No, it is a switched ground output. With nothing attached to the wire, it should be high impedance when off, and ground when on.

Dave

I would set your timing to 15* and check your maf sensor if you haven't already.

Ok so the maf is wired properly getting 12v ground and .7v on the ecu and harness side on the 5v wire but the car was on not running and that's what I got when I turn it on and rev it the voltage increases. Also idk if this is related but everytime I fill up the car starts bogging after and the idle drops but does not cut off

now i can ease into boost and it wont lean out but if do it quickly it will go all the way to 22

So I did a boost leak test by pressurizing the system and spraying soapy water I found a couple of little ones and fixed them but still nothing I also tried messing around with the timing set it to -5 drove it a block still leaned out then set it to 20 and the same thing LEAN any ideas

Also I have a stock det and a stock de ecu when I plug both of them in the car is very lean at idle but with the chipped ecu it's rich at idle