Thread: throttle problem helpp video inside winner gets $40

If it is reading this lean at any portion of the fuel map, especially on the throttle you can really damage things.

Do you have a consult cable so you can take a log of the sensor readings?

I do not have the cable I will be checking the vacuum tomorrow. When I try pulling the codes from te ecu directly it doesn't work the light does not blink at all

does the car have a ghetto hackzord wiring harness?

What ecu are you running with the chassis? I saw a b15 cluster am I right? Follow what everybody else is telling you and be careful you could cause unwanted damage. I had the same problem but I fixed it by taking care of all the little things and then upping the injector latency and fuel pressure. Please BE CAREFUL! Don't push it until everything is working perfect.

Yea it's a b15 with b13 harness and b13 tuned ecu...the wiring isn't hacked up this is the second harness I used with the car the first one was hacked the f up cause I was trying to get the car started but after that I got another one and didn't have to do much modifying to get it to start all I had to do was extend the o2,and maf but I get the right reading on the sensors And everything was soldered and shrink wrap sealed with electrical tape on top..also i dont drive the car unless its to try and see if the problem/s are fixed

Ok vaccume is 20 but it sometimes it doesn't go past 4500 in second gear

How much vacuum the motor is holding doesn't tell you if you have leaks. If the motor is reving higher at idle that is going to make more vacuum. You have to pressure test your system and listen and feel for leaks.

Not going over 4500 rpm shouldn't really matter what gear you are in just how much load is on the motor. So you could be in 5th with the same load and it would probably do the same thing. This could be several different things causing the problem.

Check your spark plugs, distributor,cap, and plug wires. If they are old or overly worn any one could cause this as could vac leaks so check the stuff that goes bad first.

This is all assuming the car was running good like a week ago or whenever. You didn't just do a motor swap or something recently did you?

I will double check All those I see on the dis cap that there is a spot for vaccum thats plugged up should there be a hose going to that? And the car drove fine for two day then stopped working

Oh no there is no vacuum on the distributor, but anywhere else that there is a hole or even the smallest air leak can contribute to problems.

So this is a new swap basically? If that is the case there is a different list of stuff to check out in addition to some of the things that have been suggested.

Is the ECU matched to all of the sensors on the motor you have? There are some sensors that are JDM that are not interchangeable with USDM sensors and can wreak some havoc.

Ok so I relized that it only dies out when the motor is cold when it warms up it revs/drives fine but runs Lean on boost and breaks up timing is set and tps is set. When I do the timing an unplug the tps and rev the car 3 times the car starts to bog at idle real bad.