Thread: BOV Restriction? When to Upgrade?

Hey,

I was just wondering how exactly you'd know your BOV is not holding pressure? The reason I ask is because I know I'm getting close to the max pressure a DSM BOV can hold, but I'm not sure what signs would tell me I need to upgrade.

I was thinking boost falloff could be one symptom, but how would you determine it's the BOV and not the wastegate?

Thanks for the help!
-G

When you are on the dyno you can hold your hand up to the bov and feel it leak.

I crushed my 1g dsm bov so it would hold more pressure. Stock ones open around 16-18psi of boost, mine held 24psi just fine after crushing it, and there still wasn't any surge.

hmmm, can you feel it during a boost leak test? I never 'heard' anything. Boost leak tested over 20psi. Never thought of taking off the recirc hose and feeling for a leak though...

Ya, I'm considering crushing mine. I'm @ 16 psi now, but want to increase to 17psi. I'm also noticing boost fall-off at high RPM, but I'm pretty confident it's due to my 6psi IWG trying to hold 16psi lolz...need to upgrade that as well.

Also, what do you recommend for testing the BOV during crushing? Any cheap options? (Update: Looks like I can rent a vacuum pump at an auto parts store)

-G

id reccommend getting a bov rated for the power level your looking for. a nice greddy or hks one will do the job perfectly.

not a fan of crushing anything and then re-attaching it to my car.

stratton.

I agree that a custom one would be best, but if I can crush the DSM one correctly then I'm guessing I won't have any issues. I've been reading up on this and it seems that you rent a vacuum pump from an auto parts store and use that to test vacuum while crushing so you don't over crush. It looks like most guys crush theirs to around 24, but I'd be happy w/it at around 20, so my crushing won't be very extreme. Plus, my car goes into vacuum over 20 when I let off the gas so I should be safe there as well.

IDK, we'll see. I think if I'm careful and take my time I can crush it w/out issues. If I mess it up then I guess that will give me an excuse to upgrade hah but I'd rather not spend $100+ on a new BOV if I can avoid it.

-G

i used a vacuum gauge to test mine while crushing as well. Give that spring a little more pre-load and it will work awesome. I never had a single issue with my dsm bov, car never surged, the bov never leaked, and the car didn't sound all ricer.

1g dsm has been the best bov i've used. Right now I have a tial bov and it is loud as hell, borderline annoying.

Good times! Opened about 16 vacuum to start..crushed it until 19. Wanted to be on the safe side. BOV works just like it did before. No surging.

actually the 1 dsm can be modified to hold 30psi with out crushing.
DDG- Talon BOV mod for HIGH BOOST

I had a 1 dsm and moved to a nice synapse bov for my new build. I agree with stratton no crushing. The method above is the right way. There is a point where the 1dsm will become a restriction.

Ya I read all about the 'Dodge Garage' method. I looked at that and realized I didn't want to spend the time or money to do that. Plus, I have no plans to run 30psi. Maybe 22 at the most. If beyond that, I'll look into an upgrade.

The bov will be seen as a restriction when you start getting surge on the shift. If you start surging then you need to go bigger. I don't see anyone needing an upgrade until pushing over 500whp.

Like I said before though, ghetto or not, the dsm valves work just fine. Spending $200+ for a BOV is just silly unless you require something bigger.

Crushing the bov to get more preload out of the spring has the same effect as swapping out springs in a Greddy or Tial unit. Its just free

Let the haters hate, but I've tried the greddy RS, HKS ssqv, Tial, and stock DSM and the stock DSM was my favorite. It never surged, and didn't require any real adjustment other than the initial crushing. Plus, once it is done most people won't notice anything is modified on it anyway. And you don't sound like a major ricer.