Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Questions about budget turbo build

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 71-80 of 108
2011-02-03 05:22:08
#71
Originally Posted by SR20?
No I've never driven a 250+ whp car. Just my dinky little 92 SE-R with an avenir motor. With my S4 cams I used to spin through 2nd but now it just chirps a little. Anyways... I <3 you guys...and I <3 sr20-forum. All I need is money now. I think I'm going to say screw the hx35 now and run a 2871r or a sc61. Depends on moneys I guess.


sc61 you will save on the turbo, 2871R you will save on the manifold.

sorry if I come off like a dick sometimes, I look back at my posts and they seem more rude than I intended them at the time :o
2011-02-03 06:28:26
#72
Originally Posted by Will
exactly. You won't get traction till 4th gear anyway, so how much of 400whp can you actually use on the street? for that matter, you can't even use 300whp on the street. I have shitty tires but still, I can't hook till 4th gear, which is like 95mph+.

Have you ever driven a 300whp fwd car? I have a feeling you will be surprised.


How do you not get traction on the street? I don't start spinning 3rd until making over 420whp. Unless you have a really worn out lsd, you won't be spinning 3rd until making a lot more than 400whp, and even then you will still accelerate incredibly fast while spinning the hell out of them.

The only way I see you not getting traction with 300whp is if you are turning the wheel or you have something wrong with your lsd. 300whp should roast 2nd, but not even close to 3rd.
2011-02-03 13:22:49
#73
Does protech have a website? Phone number? I'm want to ask them if they'll make me a manifold that will fit an hx35. If they can't do it or don't want to then I want an sc61.
Originally Posted by Coheed
How do you not get traction on the street? I don't start spinning 3rd until making over 420whp. Unless you have a really worn out lsd, you won't be spinning 3rd until making a lot more than 400whp, and even then you will still accelerate incredibly fast while spinning the hell out of them.

The only way I see you not getting traction with 300whp is if you are turning the wheel or you have something wrong with your lsd. 300whp should roast 2nd, but not even close to 3rd.


Kinda what I was thinking. I've watched videos online of your car and it's fast as hell, but it doesn't spin till you get full boost in 3rd. That's kinda what I was wanting.
2011-02-03 13:55:53
#74
Originally Posted by Coheed
How do you not get traction on the street? I don't start spinning 3rd until making over 420whp. Unless you have a really worn out lsd, you won't be spinning 3rd until making a lot more than 400whp, and even then you will still accelerate incredibly fast while spinning the hell out of them.

The only way I see you not getting traction with 300whp is if you are turning the wheel or you have something wrong with your lsd. 300whp should roast 2nd, but not even close to 3rd.


Like I said, I have shitty tires for driving around. My turbo also has a totally different powerband than yours. When it's cool out, I spin 3rd. Have you driven a 300whp t28 powered car? Maybe I need a new LSD, or another alignment? It is not the only t28 powered car I have been in that spins in 3rd.

Either way, 300+whp is not usable on the street in a fwd car, unless you are exceeding the speedlimit on the highway. I hit 65ish in 2nd gear, where is there a highway with a speedlimit over 65?
2011-02-03 14:11:48
#75
Originally Posted by Will
Have you driven a 300whp t28 powered car?


Not trying to be rude, but I find that comment somewhat amusing considering how many setups and power levels Coheed as been through

I looked through the thread, and I do not know if I missed this, but what is the ultimate goal for the car?? That right there will depict the route you need to take...........(and by the sounds of it, its going be a street mostly vehicle, correct??)

I agree with Morgan. You are over-thinking (and possibly overbuilding, since this thing does not have to be reliable for wide open track day sessions, which anything over 300whp in useless in a fwd platform anywho........) things slightly.

What is your definitive budget and ending usage for the car??
2011-02-03 14:30:11
#76
GTIR T28 at 300whp is way different from a GT30+ at 300whp. the lag of the GT30+ help compensate the wheel spin.
2011-02-03 14:32:21
#77
Originally Posted by Keo
GTIR T28 at 300whp is way different from a GT30+ at 300whp. the lag of the GT30+ help compensate the wheel spin.


exactly, the bigger turbos don't have that surge of torque down low that breaks them loose.
2011-02-03 14:39:43
#78
my question to the OP. other than HP figures, what are you looking for from this set up?
2011-02-03 14:46:48
#79
This thread makes me LOL... Not sure what type of cars some people on this forum are putting together. I honestly think some people look way to deep into builds especially when they have been done over and over so many times.

Also to the OP who spoke to the owner of Turbo Auto in Nashville. I have no idea who that guy is but, he obviously does not know anything about the SR. A stock DE will take 400 whp and smile if done right.
Last edited by SE-Rican on 2011-02-03 at 17-14-13.
2011-02-03 17:00:35
#80
Few Comments:

-LOL at all the people in this thread suggesting thesre huge ass unresponsive and laggy turbos for 400whp.
-My t25 at 19-20psi would spin FOURTH on cold nights

Okay guys....first off a DET will hold 400whp all day. The thing that wont hold are either the rings, or the headgasket. Even then my old DET saw 3 plus years of HARD abuse before It stop making compression. Theres no point in me even taking it apart to see whats wrong with it either. Just swap in another DET and go.

OK 400whp on a DET can be done SUPER cheaply. Your gonna need S4's or something around there specs. Fuel system: top feed rail (you can normally get these on here for like $75 used if you look around) 72lb injectors (these can be had cheap also. Normally around $150 if you look), FPR and harbor freight pressure gauge. Then youll need a walbro. Fuel done

The motor: New rod bearings and any other bearings you wanna swap. New front and main seals. NO head work needed. Take the STOCK manifold, drill a hole in the top and get a shop to weld on a wastegate flange ($100 at most). Your done with the motor.

Turbo: Your choice here. But you also have a choice of having a super responsive 400whp (20psi) or a super laggy but less heated up and stressed turbo. The latter will leave you wanting to turn the boost up. The former will leave you wanting to find everything else to improve on the car cause the powerbands perfect. The gt2871 is a great turbo. But there are TONS of other cheaper turbos that will get you to 400whp and give you a great power band also.

Like Rican said. Alot of you guys come into this turbo thing over thinking everything. Then you wind up overspending on stuff for a result you couldve gotten way waaaay cheaper with some research. Most of the guys with fast cars on this forum arent the guys with the cleanest engine bays or the ones who spent the most money. Most of the fastest guys here are the guys who keep it simple and strait to the point. Proper sized turbo for your goals (not a gt40 just to run 10lbs), fuel system setup to handle the power with a little room to grow, clutch to handle the power, tires/drag radials to put the power down to the ground, and suspension. Thats it. All this VE head ect ect is just extra stuff until you hit 400whp or more. Start with the basics. Once you start making power THEN start looking to complicate things. It doesnt take a VE anything to make 400whp on a STOCK det.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top