Thread: Questions about budget turbo build

I want to build a reliable 400whp motor, and of course, run a p11/b15 transmission. I'm just asking for thoughts/suggestions/constructive criticism on what I have in mind before I go buy a ton of parts and find out I wasted my money. Here is the setup I plan to put together:

VE-T
Forged rods and pistons (9.0:1) w/ 8 cw crank and girdle
Head will get rebuilt - resurface, 3 angle valve job, steam clean
Nismo 740cc or Sard 850cc injectors. (Info on the Sard injectors?)
Z32 maf
Log style top mount T3 exhaust mani. (Brand names? Good prices?)
Holset HX35 turbo - Getting rebuilt
Nistune for engine management since Calum is done.

Anything I'm forgetting? Also, keep in mind I'm on a pretty strict budget here as I'm still in school. The only thing I have out of all of this is a VE head. :o But I have a job and am slowly making my way towards beginning this. I just want to have everything in line before I even start.

Concentrate on school

I agree.

Get a bep housing from extremepsi.com as well if u really wanna feel that turbo come alive... I'm rockin a Holset and nistune as well

Haters gon hate.... That's what summer and winter break are for!

If you're going for budget you could just get a DET bottom end. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe you can bolt the VE head to it. They are known to handle the power and you could ditch the forged stuff and crank.

Log is a good idea on the cheap and you can find them around here or they have DIY kits for even cheaper.

Don't forget to upgrade the fuel pump.

Truett

I would only change one thing. No log manifold.

Log manifolds with the VVL dont work out so well. But a quick search and you can find old threads of mine and the woes it brought me. Sigh.

Go tubular on VVL or don't bother. The high overlap cams will not work well with the log manifold.

i hate log style manifolds
they belong on diesel's not SR20's

You must have a high budget cause your parts list is crazy expensive.

Personally, Id rather keep the head stock (later you can replace cams, springs and retainers), but as of right now Id rather skip the valve job and get a good tubular manifold.

I can build it at school and get credit hours for it!

I've read you can use the factory 12cm^2 housing and theres really not much of a difference if you get the BEP one. Do you have it? Is there a noticeable difference in spool time?


I've already got a walbro 255lph pump installed. And the VE head will bolt to a DE block with slight modifications but I want the VE oil pump and pickup tube. I found a block locally for $150 with everything on the bottom end. And I want the forged internals for reliability.


Why do you say this? Can you elaborate? From what I understand it's better than a gtir mani with a T3 flange and external wastegate. Plus the top mount makes it that much cooler.


Once again the reliability thing. Plus my teacher is getting me nearly 40% off the rebuild since he is so well known around town.