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Thread: engine break in.

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Posts: 11-20 of 20
2011-01-11 05:50:11
#11
after reading that im thinking VR1 10w30 for break in and amsoil 10w40 premium protection for after break in.
2011-01-13 01:28:26
#12
I used 10w40 castrol gtx, varying rpm's for the first 1k miles..Boosting here and there in different gears..

After 3k miles you could switch to synthetic
2011-01-13 03:03:17
#13
Originally Posted by Coheed
The saying "don't use synth on breakin" seems to be a wive's tale to me.
As machining processes get better and tolerances get tighter, the need to break-in with organic oil is less and less on newer engines. Our engines while advanced for their time, still have the need for the organic stuff during break-in. No wives' tale.
2011-01-19 11:30:44
#14
new problem
i ended up going with VR1 10w30. i got the car started yesterday. it sounds good. but what has me stumped is. at times it will only rev to 2k. if i start the car with my foot on the gas, then it will rev freely past 2k. im thinking its the tune. the ecu is a calum basic tuned for 8.5:1, 370cc, Z32 maf. I was thinking it had something to do with me running blow thru instead of draw thru. the car is running rich. afrs go from 10.0-12.3 at idle. im stumped. the car idles good at 850rpm
2011-01-19 12:00:19
#15
Did you put the DET pistons back in (thus still at 8.5 cr?).

Those AFR's are too rich, when you cold start it it should be about 12-13 for a few seconds then it should jump up to 13-14 while warming up. Also if you switched from blow through to draw through a slight tune adjustment might be needed, but shouldn't be anything major unless you have a boost/vacuum leak.
2011-01-19 12:06:36
#16
yes. im using 8.5:1 DET pistons
2012-01-30 09:42:10
#17
Sup everyone.

Just fitted my newly rebuilt (again) motor and looking for some advice. Pretty familiar with the break in process of limiting the rpms, and varying the load and also engine breaking on decelleration etc.

However, the only way I'm gonna get say 500 miles on the motor in a reasonable time span is if I used the car to work. But my commute is litterally 95% highway. I can still vary the revs all the way as traffic is sparce, but, is a 35mile/40min stint (at a time) too long in terms of generating heat in the motor? Should I rather do shorter trips?

Oh yeah this is a built N/A motor.
2012-01-30 13:50:41
#18
Originally Posted by SR20s
i ended up going with VR1 10w30. i got the car started yesterday. it sounds good. but what has me stumped is. at times it will only rev to 2k. if i start the car with my foot on the gas, then it will rev freely past 2k. im thinking its the tune. the ecu is a calum basic tuned for 8.5:1, 370cc, Z32 maf. I was thinking it had something to do with me running blow thru instead of draw thru. the car is running rich. afrs go from 10.0-12.3 at idle. im stumped. the car idles good at 850rpm


check your maf voltage...
2012-01-30 14:08:55
#19
Originally Posted by Doctor
Sup everyone.

Just fitted my newly rebuilt (again) motor and looking for some advice. Pretty familiar with the break in process of limiting the rpms, and varying the load and also engine breaking on decelleration etc.

However, the only way I'm gonna get say 500 miles on the motor in a reasonable time span is if I used the car to work. But my commute is litterally 95% highway. I can still vary the revs all the way as traffic is sparce, but, is a 35mile/40min stint (at a time) too long in terms of generating heat in the motor? Should I rather do shorter trips?

Oh yeah this is a built N/A motor.


What I did on mine was drop the car into nuetral let it coast and slow down a bit, drop it in 5th again and accelerate. Did this a few times each trip on the highway which is usually around 70mph cruising.
2012-01-30 14:18:00
#20
Originally Posted by Doctor
is a 35mile/40min stint (at a time) too long in terms of generating heat in the motor? Should I rather do shorter trips?
No, that sounds perfect. No reason to do just short trips. Drive that thing to work and back like a boss.
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