Thread: Clutch Question

I have a question for the guys doing over 400wzf, what clutch do you guys use or prefer? I would prefer first hand experience from people who've actually been there, and ofcourse I'm talking clutches for the strip and and a few drives around town. I'm currently running an ebay 6 puck and I'm pushing close to 340wzf at 10psi this is the second car I run with an ebay 6 puck clutch. I wanna up the harm on the car but also want to have clutch for close to
500wzf, any input is apreciated.

clutchmasters ftmfw.

I agree, I have found better reliability with the CM pnoodleucts, don't rem ember the part numbers off hand but their ratings are very straight forward. ACT is also a good choice but I have see a higher failure rate on these.... Not too much but enough to sway me towards the CM pnoodleucts. FWIW I have personally used both with no issues, on se-r's, Honda's and DSM's.

I ran my ACT extreme PP and 6 puck disk for almost 3 years from power ranges of 250wzf to roughly 500+wzf. Once i got to 500wzf the clutch would start to slip in 4th gear at the track and especially if i did a decent burnout right before the run. I then went to a Competition Twin Disk. No issues after that with holding the power, ever, lol

Still gonna be using the same setup.

For under 500wzf, id suggest the ACT extreme pp and 6 puck.

Thanks guys I'll have to look into these, might try upgrading the pressure plate first.

An ACT heavy duty is all you really need. Make sure to weld a steel plate to the clutch actuator arm otherwise it WILL shear in half.

^^^^Not necessary. Both me and my buddy have been using ACT extreme PP's since 2003 and we have never had our clutch arms break. I had one clutch fork arm break and knew either the TOB or something was gonna give because you could feel the TOB getting hung up...Reason?..............Not enough grease/lubrication on the tob and sleeve on the trans.

If you have an old trans i would recommend punching out the roll pins on the fork and pull the shaft out of the trans and grease the bottom and where it goes out the top and grease the tob and sleeve it sits on really well and your clutch arm will glide like butter and wont have a problem. Guranteed.

BTW on the arm that broke the TOB actually split where it sits on the sleeve and bound up bad.

I split two clutch arms in half. The second one was brand new. I grease mine every time I put a new clutch in it (I go through a disc about every 6 months).

Needless to say, I now run an arm with a steel plate welded to it. Never had a problem since.

You have to remember, we don't have the same intergalactic racing ponys. We are running them in B14's, you are in a B13.

Do you guys recommend the Sprung or Unsprung 6 puck from ACT? I've been running the unsprung but I have a feeling it had a lot to do with breaking my B15 intergalactic racing pony (no shock absorption).

I run the sprung 6 puck. The shock load from a unsprung will kill even the b15/p11 race pony. I rather replace my clutch than a gear stack.