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Thread: SR20VE-T GTI-R ~500hp

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Posts: 51-60 of 74
2011-10-09 16:02:23
#51
A friend of mine has assembled sr20det with rnn14 bearings and mahle rods. he said they fited well without any machinery

the 6262 is cheaper than the garrett 3076. do you think it is worth of it?

when I started it was a 500hp street car just to frighten som evos stis and gtr. now you guys push me to make a 700hp monster?
2011-10-09 16:05:35
#52
I have an idea to use 8 injectors intake from the n1 and use 8 injectros. I think I can use 550 + 550 injectrors and switch to second rail on the demand?

this fuel scheme is used in the sr16ve n1 and it worked! (200hp from a 1.6 n/a on the pump gas)

I think it will be great and will improve the intake system.
2011-10-09 22:28:46
#53
i think you r overcomplicating this a lot. use the sc6262 def wont regret that. 1000cc injectors and be done with it

who cares what we want you need to focus on your goals and do it intelligently
2011-10-10 00:17:12
#54
not many companies make rods specificaly for the GTiR, you can use your standard eagle or manley, it is only 2mm difference in width, you will have zero problems

keep to your set goals and setup, the 6262 billet is perfect, OEM vet metal head gasket and a set of studs will be great for what you want to do, you could also run a completely stock gtir without major issues and reach your power goal, set of cams, bigger injector, good tune ready to go
2011-10-10 00:30:23
#55
Yeah id do at least pistons to get rid of the cast pistons and get ve specific pistons as well. Use the GTIR stock rods as they are pretty beefy and will not have any issues going to 500whp or so. 740cc or bigger injectors and be done with it.
2011-10-10 01:58:04
#56
Originally Posted by morgans432
i think you r overcomplicating this a lot. use the sc6262 def wont regret that. 1000cc injectors and be done with it

who cares what we want you need to focus on your goals and do it intelligently


this was a joke : It's my mistake first of all. I began with the gt3076r and thougt that it will be enough for me.
Now I can see that I want to tush the 600hp limit

The gearbox was the narrow place. Now with the PAR gearset I don't worry about it.
2011-10-10 12:01:06
#57
Are you using the stock final drive? If so you will still have issues with the case unless it braced. If you've got the funds the PPG staright cut final drive can be used with the PAR gearset and then you can remove the side loading completely and a collar around the outside of the case should keep the shafts together.

Also I'd love to see 500whp on a stock GTiR in an awd application, remember drive train losses are around 25% on 4wd so thats 660bhp at the flywheel. Not saying it can't be done but I'm not sure how long it would survive.
2011-10-10 13:47:15
#58
I have 3.2 straight cut PAR final drive




I have designed my own collar. some of the guys on the nismo-club.ru are using them
the hollows are filled with the epoxy and the metal flakes(shavings).

yep. 660 maybe too much.
as you seen I wanted 500hp, not the 500whp.
I think I will not try to achieve great numbers.
My first aim is nice spool and the torque shelf.
The gears are longer than the stock.
Last edited by Denismo on 2011-10-10 at 14-12-57.
2011-10-10 20:34:55
#59
whats all that junk inside it?
2011-10-10 20:47:09
#60
epoxy and metal shavings the keys to holding a gearbox together...
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