Thread: SR20VE-T GTI-R ~500hp

what did you do about the dowel pins? did you get the ve head machined to accept the gti-r dowels?

VE needs no machining for the ARP GTIR Headstuds, we did it , VE head needs no machining for dowels also.

my friend has fited the sr20ve p12 head with no problems on the gtir block.

interesting, as I have an SR20VE to fit to GTiR block. Looking at the measurements in this thread:

http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/2188-gti-r-20ve-headswap.html

the bolts will go through the holes but I'm guessing the extra clearence is to allow for the differing thermal expansion rates of the head and the bolts/studs. So without machining the VE head to have the same level of clearance as the GTiR head do you not risk damaging the head?

good info. I have to think about it.

I've mulled it over and for the sake of a small amount of machining I'm going to hone the holes out. There's little point risky the head cracky through thermal expansion or compression for spending a tiny bit more to do it properly. If I destroy the head I'd have to go to the hassle of importing another.

I have been running this setup for over a year and you have to get the head machined no doubt about it. Mine was done by Mazworx. The GTIR head gasket will work but if you use a diff. gasket you also have to get that machined for the bigger studs. You should never have to force a head on it should fit over the dowels easy. There's only one way to do it and that's the right way.

VE 20V gasket > GTIR head gasket ( 20V gasket must be bored larger to for GTIR dowel

You guys need to learn how to do things right and stop cutting corners and half assing..

youre right. I also think that it can fit without modifications, but can crack.

I already have the sr20det rnn14 cometic 87*1,2 gasket and I will use it
I think it will fit perfectly for my setup.

gtir gasket > p12 sr20ve