Thread: Clutch Disk Options

Ah come on not like a clutch job is hard...

No, just a pain in the ass. Takes away from valuable tuning/driving time!

Having had a similar conversation with Vadim just recently and actually have to deal with the paltry selection of good pressure plate and clutch disc combinations for mid-grade torque ranges like you and Vadim (300 WTQ) I would buy a JWT pressure plate and call up Clutch Masters and tell them you want a clutch disc similar to the OEM B15 disc they make (sprung, full face) but maybe with a more aggressive compound instead of the fully organic compound they have on that disc. I would be looking for them to make an organic/metallic (semi-metallic) disc for me. Likely they won't charge you much for the custom application I don't think. They do stuff like this all the time and it shouldn't be a big deal for them.

Maybe ask them about 8-puck options if the full face absolutely won't work out.

It really is time to start thinking custom clutch discs around here. Since no one seems to make anything meant for between 240 WTQ and 375 WTQ. It's like there is this giant chasm in the market offerings. Unacceptable. We wouldn't have this either if people would stop putting up with 6-pucks for medium builds.

If the price they quote does end up being excessive, I would settle for an aftermarket pressure plate in the "100% stiffer than stock" range (I think the JWT is around 60% stiffer) and go with the B15 disc (which I believe is about 40% more aggressive than stock). Combined you should end up with something that can handle about 140% more torque than stock which is about 288 WTQ and I'd see how that went.



To give you a reference point a JWT PP (I think about 60% more TQ capacity over stock) mated with a B15 clutch disc (I think about 40% more TQ capacity over stock) held up to my 240 WTQ for a couple thousand miles before I took the transmission off and inspected it. It still looks absolutely brand new. The pressure plate still has the original tooling marks on it. The Clutch disc looks immaculate. The Flywheel surface is pristine.
And this is from a setup that wasn't supposed to be able to handle nearly that much torque. Frankly I'd almost recommend it to you too after seeing it handle my engine but you could probably stand to go with something a tad bit more aggressive, but still full-faced, sprung, OEM quality, mostly organic and totally streetable.

Something is seriously, seriously wrong with this equation. But you've heard me gasp at your sintered iron disc before so you don't need me to do that again. Either you're slathering grease all over everything when you assemble your clutches, or that dyno on the mountain top you go to reads extremely low.

That's just bonkers.

This might be true for some brands? I don't know. My experience was completely the opposite.

heh heh. Yes, perhaps the dynos up here read a bit lower than some others, as stated before. But my 6-puck ceramic held up to 350wtq before slipping on the dyno. Sent ceramic dust all over the place lol. I don't even know how that dust came through the inspection cover. Just odd.

The sintered has held pretty good though. I have to make solid shifts though because the clutch will still slip just a little bit if I ride it out at all.

I went a bit overkill on the disc because I didn't want the heavier pp. The extreme is way too stiff for a dd. I like my thrust bearings

In all my years of messing with SR20's and using a ACT Extreme PP I have never had nor heard of an SR20 having thrust bearing issues due to a Extreme PP.

ACT 6 puck with springs and a Extreme PP for me.

I've been hearing a lot of different things at this point and I'm not really sure on which direction to turn to. I've been searching around and came across this. Looks like a good deal, no?

G20 SENTRA NX 200SX SR20DE eCM® STAGE 2 CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL: eBay Motors (item 130434198736 end time Oct-20-10 23:04:55 PDT)

Right on bro. I haven't seen much wear on thrust bearings with the SR motor. So it is good to see this isn't an issue with these cars.

Yes that is a very good deal.

If I had to go 6-puck that would be a good consideration. Just be aware that with the B14 and flywheels, sometimes it is hard to get the right kind of flywheel with the right number of teeth so you don't get a CEL showing.

There is a thread for that.

Here is that (sticky) flywheel thread: http://www.sr20-forum.com/howtos/8164-sr-flywheels.html