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Thread: My 6 speed blogger. Swap complete! vids inside

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Posts: 311-320 of 439
2011-04-24 15:21:12
#311
You need 3 90mm bolts (end to end) 1 80mm bolt. And reuse some stock bolts. The starter bolts are 75mm and 80mm.

The B14 requires notching of the lower sub frame to fit and clear the differential. Just behind the driver's control arm. So get a sawzall and cut a chunk out. IT should make it easier to work on having a piece cut out.

I wonder if the B15 sub frame would fit? Everything could bolt on. But you would need practically a whole parts car to do what I would like to do.
2011-04-25 23:08:51
#312
Cozzm0 is the MAN! Thanks man, you have no idea how much I appreciate this! Got my slave cylinder today! WOOOOOT!

Now I gotta go do some grinding and cutting on the chassis for some fitment issues. I will post pics of what I mean in a little while.

Got my other spindle today too! So new bearings are going in!
2011-04-25 23:17:53
#313
No problems mate. Glad to be able help out to get your machine back on the road.
2011-04-26 04:22:37
#314
So I started all the grinding today on the sub frame. It seems that when the engine torques it may move enough to cause some interference. So you need to grind away approx 3/4" of material from the weld. This will allow water to go into the subframe, so you gotta paint where you grind or cut to prevent rust. I took out a lot more than I needed to in order to make this easier to work on. The steel is pretty thick, so I'm not worried about any issues arising from it. The B13 subframe is smaller/narrower so it may clear without issues. The B14 is a bit beefier.

I got a press to do the wheel bearings. So I will be working on that tomorrow.
2011-04-26 23:53:47
#315
I got the frame finished, painted to prevent rust, and then worked on the shifter assembly and clutch pedal. Got a clutch line made today. The length of the line will depend on what you want to use, but I went with a 36" line. This gives enough room to allow engine movement, but you may want to go with a slightly longer line if you want to route it differently.

I am going out to put the wheel bearings in. Working on this all night
2011-04-27 05:30:59
#316
Ok, wheel bearings are done. I had to put together my press before I could do the bearings. One of the bearings was a pain, the other was easy. Learning experience? Sure.

I got the clutch pedal cut out how it needs to be, thanks for the writeup kevin! It helped me decide exactly where to cut.

I put on the axle bracket, rear mount, front mount, and axles. The car needs to have the shift cables locked down still, and needs a clutch pedal installed. Another 10hrs of work at a leisurely pace and the car should be ready to go. I am going to install the new knuckles as soon as my brakes get here. I am going to go ahead and bleed the rear brakes tomorrow and get the shifter all finished before I go to work.

I'm going to get a plan of action going to keep me on track.
Finish shifter cables.
Install new knuckles.
Brakes, bleeding.
Clutch pedal install with reservoir.
Tranny mount (waiting on Dealer bracket)
replace leaking dizzy O-ring.
Fill trans fluid.
Hook up sensors, Intercooler piping, install battery.
Replace the harmonic dampener.
Check everything to ensure it is working properly.
Beat the hell out of it.
Beat the hell out of it some more.
Take it on a cruise on Sunday?

I hope I can make the Utah Nissans Annual BBQ this Sunday. That would be epic for me!
2011-04-27 06:12:27
#317
wheres the info on the cutting of the firewall?
2011-04-27 13:27:03
#318
i followed this write-up so far

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-maintenance/39512-how-b14-hydraulic-clutch-conversion.html#post585456
2011-04-28 05:30:07
#319
Got the brakes in today! BREMBO this time!

I will have the clutch pedal mounted tomorrow. The brakes will be put on, and the thing will be ready to put IC piping back on, fill fluids, and run!

There is one small hiccup. I can't seem to get a solid feel from 1st or 3rd gear. The other gears seem to work correctly, except reverse. 1st and 3rd go in but they feel like they only go in half way. Not sure what the deal is there, but removing the whole case can be done with the trans in the bay hopefully. I'll just bust out the impact gun and get crackin' if I gotta tear it down to see if something's binding. Only take a few hours as long as I don't have to pull everything out again. Hopefully it works on the first try. I'm gonna put in some cheap fluid and see what happens.
2011-04-28 06:02:41
#320
Were the cables in good shape? When I had my DSM one of the cables broke and it felt weird too. I could only get 2,4,R 1,3,5th were gone till I changed the cables.
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