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Thread: My 6 speed blogger. Swap complete! vids inside

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Posts: 191-200 of 439
2011-01-07 20:54:57
#191
Yeah thats where i broke mine. They are cast steel units not cut from billet pieces. Your only best bet for something stronger is to get a nice billet unit made by Driveshaftshop or something of that nature if you have a company in AU that can make them.

DSS makes performance axles for our car even though they dont show on their site but im sure if you called them and said you just need a nice outer joint made that they could do it and it would probably save you some time.

I broke my axle right at the hub last time out when I did an 8k launch and dead hooked on 25X8.7X13 m&h slicks at 10psi of pressure. Preload and all. If you dont preload you tend to break the stock b13 axles inside the trans for the passenger axle but if you preload the axle will break at the weak point at the hub as thats the first place to recieve the snap.

Both sides are not the same i dont think. When i get the other axle in in the next couple days and put the b13 outer joint on i will take measurements for that one as well.

So is it coming out any shorter than your p12 axles as far as the length is?
2011-01-07 21:48:45
#192
Yeh the P12 ones are much longer. I ended up getting billet replacements for the shaft between the joints made to the exact length to suit.

The P12 ones, when assembled and the joint is in the hub, the lower ball joint is still about 1" away from being able to go into the hub, even with the shaft bottomed out ! The front track on the P12 must be quite wide!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

That's a picture to show the shaft length difference on the short side (your driver side, my passenger side) between the OEM P12 shaft and the billet shaft i had made to suit my car.

The bonus with the P12 shafts is that for the longer shaft, its shorter between the box and the bracket, so there's no interference at the chassis leg and nothing needs to be cut/modified there to make it fit.
2011-01-07 22:50:09
#193
Yeah, It could have been your mount setup that caused interferance. The way its looking on my B13, there should be more than enough room on the frame of the car to clear the axle and CV joint.

Well this should make it much easier for people wanting to do this swap.
2011-01-08 03:46:29
#194
The GA16 axles work.... hmmmm. I thought they might.

Get a final verdict on this and let me know. I have some Spec V axles here. Looks like my bit of research may have been useful for us all. Keep us posted ashton.
2011-01-08 03:48:23
#195
and make a how to for those of us that havent "built" axles before
2011-01-08 04:10:22
#196
Originally Posted by Coheed
The GA16 axles work.... hmmmm. I thought they might.

Get a final verdict on this and let me know. I have some Spec V axles here. Looks like my bit of research may have been useful for us all. Keep us posted ashton.


No, not the GA axles Coheed. The SR20 axle outer CV joints are the same. The GA ones have a smaller input into the outer cv joint.

Dont confuse them. They all use a very similar outer joint style just like most cars do but the spline count and size is different. Again B13/B14 SR20 axles and Spec V axles share the same outer CV joint spline count and size and can be swapped.

Its easy to pull them apart. At first i was like wtf as i could not get the outer joint off the axle shaft. So then i figured it might just be a C-clip holding it in place like how the driver side axle is where it goes into the trans. So I beat it off with a mallet and it came right off. Just be careful not to damage it but it doesnt take too much to get it off. If you have a vice to hold it in it would be much easier. I just held the axle in my arm and wacked it off. Going on just check to make sure the C-clip is not too spread out to where the axle wont properly compress it and go over it. If its too open which mine was after i removed the joint on the Spec V one. Just remove the C-clip and put it into a set of pliers and compress the ends together until its at the point when you put it on the axle that it just slightly sits higher than the splines. other than that, its easy.

It just took me a minute to get it after staring it down for a bit.
2011-01-08 04:45:40
#197
Originally Posted by ashtonsser
Yeah thats where i broke mine. They are cast steel units not cut from billet pieces. Your only best bet for something stronger is to get a nice billet unit made by Driveshaftshop or something of that nature if you have a company in AU that can make them.

DSS makes performance axles for our car even though they dont show on their site but im sure if you called them and said you just need a nice outer joint made that they could do it and it would probably save you some time.


Do you know what they run off the top of your head? Ballpark, specifics not needed.
2011-01-08 05:09:04
#198
I could do that easily. I've done several rebuilds before. They are very simple and the hardest part is hammering off the outer because there is a circlip holding it in place. Other than that, its just a messy job.
2011-01-08 05:18:59
#199
Very messy, I hate grease.
2011-01-08 05:26:24
#200
anything inside need to be replaced while its apart?
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