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Thread: My 6 speed blogger. Swap complete! vids inside

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Posts: 181-190 of 439
2011-01-05 01:45:50
#181
I found the easiest thing to do is get hybrid axles and skip the whole spindle swap stuff
2011-01-05 03:33:17
#182
What do you mean hybrid axles? Like just take the 2 axles to a CV shop and have them fit them together? Wouldn't the cost be about the same as getting used axles from a sentra and then getting the spindles?
2011-01-05 03:41:47
#183
I was just going to call Raxles when the time comes, but yeah. I believe it was iczer200sx OR Zer099 who's already done it. There is a thread somewhere with what axles ends are compatible with each other.

Its in this THREAD (http://www.sr20-forum.com/499846-post118.html)

Miko even mentioned it when i bought the P12 trans from him.

It has to be cheaper than messing with changing brake setups, redrilling my wheels and bolt pattern, and possibly having to put new bearings and seals in the b15 spindles.
2011-01-05 03:46:53
#184
Originally Posted by unijabnx2000
I was just going to call Raxles when the time comes, but yeah. I believe it was iczer200sx who's already done it. There is a thread somewhere with what axles ends are compatible with each other.

Miko even mentioned it when i bought the P12 trans from him.

It has to be cheaper than messing with changing brake setups, redrilling my wheels and bolt pattern, and possibly having to put new bearings and seals in the b15 spindles.


...its a 2002+ car...vs a 1991-1994 wheel bearing. I always get fresh ones from junkyards in Houston, no rust or issues with the wheel bearing getting dirty. If you're pushing enough power to need a 6spd, then I doubt your factory B13 brakes will handle it. I had spec V brembos on my G20 for a year or so, and then switched to regular B15 Se-R brake setup with ceramic pads and I noticed a huge difference in braking. If I'm going over 120MPH and I need to brake hard and fast, B13s are a no go. Better to just get new spindles and find better wheels. I have 17x9.5s and they fit great. try to find that for under $100 in 4x100. So you have no clue how much raxles would charge you. I think it;s over $400 for the axles...
2011-01-05 03:52:37
#185
well for me Carbotech pads work just great in my stock calipers.
and the cost of be dismounting my tires to have the wheels bored out to fit B15 hubs and put back together and balanced again($430 min)

and i just spent $410 on new front wheel bearings and an alignment. and would be throwning money away to get diff spindles this soon.
2011-01-07 07:31:30
#186
B13/B14 outer CV's onto SpecV axles

Ok i take it back. After taking a micrometer to the two outer CV joints of the SR20 axle and the SpecV axle. The splines are one in the same. The measured identical and have identical teeth. I think what happened when i first tried to put it on was the joint went crooked and actually caused it to chew into some of the splines. After cleaning them up and retrying, it went on with the small help of a 3lb mallet. After the C clip snapped into place it was all good. Its fully onto the shaft and looks great.

So all in all summary is B13 b14 outer joints onto the Spec V axle.

Im extatic right now that something went my way. haha I can keep my brakes and slicks and so on. Love it.

Here is the final result. B13 meets B15 Spec V. Im also gonna post this info up in Coheeds thread with his findings.



2011-01-07 10:04:52
#187
Can you do me a massive favour if still possible.

Measure the compressed length of the shaft (i.e bottom out the inner joint) and measure between the straps that hold the boots on.

If not, that's fine.

I had a suspicion this might have been possible, but i didn't want to throw down the cash to get the parts to AUS and it wasn't exactly feasible to try and get soemone to try that over there.

The P12 factory shafts i have are the same setup. The splines are the same that go into the outer CV, but the P12 factory shafts are too long to use on the B13/14 chassis.

Good find and thanks for posting the information up for everyone.

This also means that if people want to use B15 hubs with the bigger shaft splines they can just use the joint + hubs. (especially for those with issues from drag racing)
2011-01-07 17:40:11
#188
Again the shafts being the same size, at the joint there is really no disadvantage to running the B13 hub. The axle is only going to be as strong as its smallest point which again is the same size as a b13. So even though the rest of the shaft is massively larger than the b13 axle its still has the same size CV connection on the outer joint. I will measure that for ya and post up the info.
2011-01-07 17:58:18
#189
Couple measurements

Compressed joint from inner CV Clamp to Outer CV joint clamp center to center measured 12"

Center of inner CV clamp to the wheel bearing contact face on the outer CV where it mates on the hub is 14"

The measurements i got of the inner diameter peak to peak of the splines on the outer CV's of both the B13 sr20 and SpecV axle were 1.096"

When doing this just be very careful that you line the splines up correctly, the way its made is there is a set of 1/8" long or so splines before the C-clip then once it clears the C-clip there is a bit over an inch of splines that it contacts and sits on. If you go crooked at all it wont go on straight for one and damage the splines on the shaft and it wont compress the C-clip correctly to slide over it. Again it may take the persuasion of a mallet or if you have a small press it would be very easy to line up and make sure it goes on straight. Other than that. It was cake and this is definitely good info.
2011-01-07 20:43:23
#190
Thanks very much for the measurements. One last thing, are they the same length on both sides of the car?

We've had a guy in Australia doing drags and he seems to have a great ability to snap CV's right at the point where they enter the splines at the bearing in the hub. All OEM genuine shafts too (not the cheap aftermarket stuff).
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