Thread: My 6 speed blogger. Swap complete! vids inside

This is what I did today. I'm going to just put my write-up here for now until I get a full sticky thread for just that. But you guys can at least see what is involved. This is a rather simple job, but there are a lot of pieces involved, and some experience would def be preferable since you can mess things up if you don't get it right.

Once you have the case off as done previously, Then there are two bolts that hold the shift check balls for the shifter rods.



Use a magnet to remove the check balls.



You will pull out a spring, a long rod, and a ball.


Then start to remove the roll pins and circlips. There should be 4 clips and 4 pins iirc.
This is the reverse shift roll pin.


Then the 5-6th roll pin.


There are two pins on the 3-4th shaft that need to be removed. You can see both here, one on the shift collar and one on the linkage.


Take the two bolts off of this reverse shifter. There is an interesting collar-adapter on the back, make sure you don't lose it.


Just up and to the left of my index finger you can see this collar-adapter. It just slides right off.


Now pull the reverse shaft out.


Then remove the first shift rod for 5-6th gears.


Now use your magnet to get out some check balls.



To the left of the first bolt you took off with check balls/springs etc, the six speed has 2 bolts you need to remove. Don't forget springs.



Once that is done you can slide out the 5-6th shift rod.


Then two more check balls from the first hole.


Here you can see the circlip and roll pin on the 3-4th shaft you need to remove.


Now you can pull out the shaft for 3-4th, along with the shift fork.


Send the magnet back in to collect this small rod from the 1-2 shaft.


Followed by the Big shaft shown here.


You can see the roll pins on the final shaft for removal. One out by my index, the other I'm point with my pinky finger.


Now you need a buddy to help you out on this part. Removal of the gearstacks. There are 3 stacks here instead of 2 like the SR trans. Mainshaft, input, and your reverse idler shaft. You need to grab the input and mainshafts and pull up slowly while a buddy does the same with the reverse stack. The reverse gears WILL come apart and you have to be ready to not lose any parts. If you somehow lose the order they go, or don't know how the set goes together you will have to consult the FSM. I suggest to prevent this that your buddy pulls the shaft out by the top of the shaft. Don't grab the gears themselves. Pull the shaft up with the other shafts and everything should stay together.

Once you have successfully pulled the stacks out you are left with this.

Now you have to transfer all the old bearings over to the new trans bell housing. The bell housing is sold without an parts really. It has new seals installed, but that is about it.

Mainshaft bearing with oiler. The oiler only goes in one way to channel oil properly, and the bearing can be a bit tough to get out. Best thing is to soak up all the gear oil, then use two needle nose pliers to pull it out evenly without damaging it. Don't forget the bearing retainer that is held with a 10mm bolt.


I didn't have another inner race to put in my new bell housing, so I decided to just try and reuse the old one. I pounded the seal out, then flipped the housing around and lightly tapped the race down from the back side. It came out remarkably good.


A pic of the TOB lever. It has a retainer that keeps in on this pivot ball.


Put the race in nice and easy. Make sure that it goes in evenly and flush. Take your time on this.


Installed, and now on to the mainshaft bearing.


You can see the oiling channel has a recessed portion for this oiler to sit in correctly. Don't break your oiler.


I took a pic of how the reverse gear setup should look when it is put together correctly.



Don't forget your magnet gentlemen.


This is the most effective way to avoid pinching your fingers when putting in your HLSD assembly.


All done with that.


Slide all your shafts back in all at once. Make sure you don't crush your mainshaft oiler. Nice and easy guys and when it is all in place it should all rotate together freely as long as no gears are selected. Once done, make sure you check all clearances for binding etc. The reverse gears shouldn't interfere with anything.

See the gap here.


Start putting your shift shafts back in and all the circlips and roll pins back in place. You may have to wiggle the shafts up and down to get the check balls to recess to get the shift shafts in all the way. Let it all slide together, do NOT force the shift shafts down. If you have to use anything more than hand force, something is not right. Wiggle the shafts, rotate them etc to get the balls to recess enough so you can put the next shaft in.

These pics are taken in order.







Here you can see the two passages for the check balls.


Everything just slides back together.




Put your reverse shaft back in.


Another shaft goes in.







On both ends here you can see the reverse shift linkage. Look at the two square cutouts on each side of the pic.



Slide this piece back in and bolt it down.


Don't lose this shim through the process.


Put your oiler back in and you are good to go.

Here is a direct side-by-side comparison of the gearshafts.









You can see the gears are thicker! Yay! Larger shafts, fatter teeth, strong case. Should hold up really well.

Sweet write-up!

I hated doing the roll pins...

this may also help with reassembly

So there still seem to be some issues with how I am going to do this. I am really debating hard on getting some SpecV hubs with brembos and the whole rear beam. I just really didn't want to have to spend all the money doing that stuff but it seems like it may be the way to go.

Marty can't seem to figure out how he made axles for Iczer, he says the CV shaft is too big the the outer joint.

The other issue I am having is with the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is on back order and noone can get one. Perhaps I need to order one from an overseas aftermarket company?

Just ask one of the GTi-R boys for one. That's where I got mine. I think I saw one on ebay as well.

link me to the one you got. Just want to make sure I get the right one.

still need to figure out axles.

if i can remember correctly, you should be able to use a slave cylinder from a 95-99 maxima. its in one of these threads about putting a 6 speed into a p11 iirc. was trying to see if there was any other nissan cars that used the same slave, as otherwise you always have to order it/get lucky and find it online, and have someone ship it to the us. it wouldnt make any sense for nissan to have the slave made, and only use it on one car. gonna have to search through keo's posts/pm him. its been a good year since i sold off my 6 speed stuff.

edit : heres the thread to confirm it.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-aspirated/19763-p12-20v-6-speed-tranny.html

So with a P10 the axles I would need are just from a SpecV from what I am understanding. Is that correct?