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Thread: My 6 speed blogger. Swap complete! vids inside

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Posts: 61-70 of 439
2010-10-19 00:20:28



Here you can see the top mounting bolt difference.

Bolted into the car, it sits higher than the other pedals. But without that top bolt this pedal will be very flimsy.
2010-10-19 00:23:01

2010-10-19 00:23:58
Old transmission.

2010-10-19 00:39:11
Now to the good stuff! I finally got the pics on my computer and uploaded so you all can see my findings and get a little how-to on the disassembly of this transmission.

First step is to loosen all the bolts holding the casing on. I like to start here because some of these bolts are really tight, and it just makes good practice to break them loose to start out with.

Remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the shifter control assembly. Set them aside.

Remove the two 14mm shift check ball bolts. Then remove the springs and check balls with a magnet.

Remove the reverse switch sensor and the Park/Neutral sensor from the case. 21mm 6 point should do the trick.

Remove this stopper bolt from the case.

Now remove the shift-check bolt, it is a big one around 24mm. I just used an adjustable wrench, just be careful not to damage it.

After the shift-check and the stopper are removed, you can pull out the shift control assembly.

Now you have it all removed. Keep it clean and organized. I like to take any bolts removed, and lightly screw them back into their rightful place in the casing so as not to lose any.

This is the neutral/park switch. Make sure you pull this one out too but dont get it confused with the top reverse switch lol.

Unbolt the rest of the casing bolts going along the entire outer edge of the transmission. There are two bolts towards the bottom that are a little different. They are not zinc coated and are loc-tite'd into place. Here they are.

You are going to want to pry on the case a little bit to break the gasket seal.
2010-10-19 00:39:33
When you are done breaking the seal on the trans (being careful, don't pry too hard you just want to get the silicon to break free), then remove this fancy plug cover on the top of the casing.

Once done you can see the inside of the trans, there is a snap ring on the top of the main shaft you can see slightly in this pic. You must spread the snap ring carefully and if the trans case is lifted 1/4" off the bell housing the main shaft will disengage from the casing when you spread this snap ring. It will pleasantly drop away from the casing so you can pull it off.

Here is the snap ring once the main shaft drops away from the casing.

Keep this main shaft shim in place with the snap ring so you don't lose them.

Now you can pull the case off! YAY! Take a look at a thing of beauty.
2010-10-19 01:03:16
Now here's the goods. The measurements and predictions on what this transmission can handle. Here are some pics of the transmission with the case off.

Oil baffle and gear stacks.

You can see in this pic the P11 input shaft vs the RS6 gear stacks. Notice 3rd gear on the p11 is gone?

Here is a main shaft vs main shaft pic. I kept all the pics their original size because I hate people with dial-up. Seriously though, this gives a better representation of the two gear stacks against each other.

Here is the measurement of the main shaft on the p11 transmission. about 25mm or so.

Now here is the RS6. A full 5mm larger main shaft! 30mm!

P11 on the right, RS6 on the left. You can see the extra girth given to the 6 speed transmission. The gear teeth are thicker, even though the gears aren't that much wider. But 1-3rd are much thicker gears on the RS6 transmission. 4-6th are much smaller in comparison so I wouldn't say they are a massive improvement. But the teeth are larger and the larger shafts should prevent flexing in the shafts that causes gear-spread.

Here you can see a P11 input shaft on the left vs an B13 shaft on the right.

I thought the p11 gears were the same size but I was wrong. Here you can visually see how much larger the P11 3rd gear is compared to the B13. I'd say that is pretty significant.

So bottom line, the P11 gearstack up to 3rd looks to hold safely 350whp all day with the right clutch and heavy shockproof. A big improvement to the 250-300whp from the B13 trans that people break, even at that power level. A P11 if treated right will handle 400wtq as long as wheel hop is completely avoided, but it won't do it for a long time. But then again, I don't expect the RS6 trans to keep 4th gear in it at that torque level forever. It will do better though. Probably a step over the P11, just like the P11 was a step over the B13.

So I'd say if you were building a car it looks like this:
<300wtq B13/B14
<350wtq P11/B15
<400wtq RS6

Of course the vehicle weight has a lot to do with the longevity of the transmission. Heavy cars will shorten transmission life. So an RS6 in a B13 weighing 2500lbs or less would likely last for years and years of abuse. In a P11 though at the same power levels, it may not last as long. My research has shown that very few have broken the RS6 transmission, and those guys were making over 400lb torque with a Maxima's fat ass. So obviously it didn't last. I'm sure I will be the first to break one though, since that's how we do things here lol. So You guys will be the first to know when, or if, I do!
2010-10-19 01:30:36
nice info.sticky material.......
2010-10-19 03:10:08
Originally Posted by Coheed
Oh wow! there are a ton of pictures. This is going to take forever. But I will say that I had time to mount up the new altima clutch pedal. It doesn't look like its going to work. The top bolt where the pedal mounts is in a completely different spot and would require a bracket be fabricated to mount it properly. Even with a bracket, it likely will flex quite a bit more than the factory design. So it looks like the B15 clutch pedal will be used.

Ashton please link me to what you did with yours.

Here are my pics of the old clutch and the new pedal assembly. The pics are big, so use CTRL+MOUSE SCROLL to zoom in and out.

I still had to make a bracket for the b15 trans. Keo was saying the 95-98 Maxima pedals bolt right up all the way around with no trouble. He would have to chime in. I just modified mine and did my buddies and another guy on this forum. I had two other people pm me about doing a modified pedal for them as well. Id like to see how the maxima pedal works and fits.

Awesome info on the gearstacks. I was gonna say the 3rd gear doesnt look too much wider (what is the width of the 3rd gear on the 6 speed? btw) But its gonna be the tooth design and depth which is gonna make the biggest difference. the thickness of the base of the tooth is gonna be the big factor, take some measurements of that as well. How deep the tooth goes in and the thickness of the metal at the base of the tooth. You can see the beefyness of the gears and teeth right off hand and the main shaft and input shaft. Im sure it will hold well.

Thanks for the awesome info. You da man.
2010-10-19 03:19:38
the 3rd gear looks to be about 17mm, but it is hard to get calipers on it without having the stacks torn apart.

Yes, the base of the teeth is much thicker and the depth is about 20% deeper as well. And of course the gears are larger in diameter. By a lot.

I am going to stop by the dealer some time and look at a pedal assembly. They are only $100. I just don't want a flimsy pedal. Perhaps I'll make a bracket, but I would rather have a nice firm solution.
2010-10-19 03:24:26
Yeah the tooth design and gear diameter is gonna make a huge difference. The more material you put at the base the harder its gonna be to break. 4th gear doesnt look bad at all either. 5th and 6th look like the 5th gear on the p11 stack but still with larger teeth. Its gonna be an overall stronger trans by far.

Ill be running some 85w140 valvoline gear oil in mine. That thing is gonna be cushioned well.
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