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Thread: My 6 speed blogger. Swap complete! vids inside

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Posts: 51-60 of 439
2010-10-15 02:06:30
#51
I had Marty @ Raxles start making me a set of Spec V axles that will work with my current hubs. He quoted me $225 per axle and around $500 shipped for the both of them. So the way I look at it is like this:

$500 for axles to swap in.
Or:
$200 for both Spec axles.
$200 for both spindles (unless G20 are used, I think $60 for those)
$300 for used spec wheels.
$225 for the specV rear beam.
Total is $700-$1000.

So I will keep my SEL wheels which I love so much. And later on I can swap hubs if I need to. I want the SpecV rear beam, i hear it has less toe-in and I can swap my hubs from my current beam onto the spec beam. So many options.
2010-10-15 04:09:21
#52
I admit, I haven't read everything in this thread so apologies if you stated this earlier; but I am guessing you are doing the rear beam to go with a 4x114 all around. Why not just redrill the hubs on the Spec's spindles? When I got mine I paid like $40 each from a local yard for B15 spindles, about $40 each for new wheel bearings, and about $30 each to have them redrilled ($220ish total). Granted, after you spend $200 for the CVs you are looking at the same price for the customs, but the options weigh out to be about the same in my eyes. That is unless I missed something. Just saying.
2010-10-15 11:12:34
#53
Yea, I just cant find a yard around here that will sell the spindles for less. I also don't want to have to upgrade brakes quite yet. The AD22 work ok for what I'm doing. I will go bigger soon enough. But it just makes the whole swap a little easier imo.
2010-10-16 00:49:38
#54
now what are your plans for clutch and flywheel ? S15 fly ? im going to start collecting parts for the swap on my b13
2010-10-16 02:28:11
#55
Using the KA24DE clutch to go with the Gspec Flywheel.
2010-10-16 08:28:28
#56
A couple of the guys touched on some good points regarding strength, i'll add a couple more.

1. input shaft splines are larger than the B13/14 boxes which straight away indicates a higher torque rating.
2. no matter how wide the gears are, the strength of the shaft they're on to resist the separation forces is a key issue that needs to be taken into account and is a main failing with the B13/14 tranny.
3. the 6sp gearboxes original design specification / every day torque rating is 275-315 Nm by the manufacturer.

Regarding the mountings:

The stock 32 series rear mount can be modified to utilise 3 holes, but i am not positive that doing this locates the motor at the right height (its how i have mine setup, but i've always questioned if it was correct?). If i had the funds i'd be going straight for the Mazworx setup.
With the driver side mount for the box, again, straight for the mazworx setup for peace of mind to know that its right, they werent availble when i did mine. I drilled holes for the OEM maxima mount and reinforced it with 1/2" steel plate inside the rail.

I'm keen to see how these flywheels come out that are being made up as i'm using the factory dual mass flywheel (boat anchor!) + solid centre organic P12 clutch. Its great for street, but for i think if i gave it a hammering, it wouldn't be too happy.

Watching this thread with interest. Cheers.
2010-10-16 13:06:20
#57
Good to hear your input Cozzm0. The way I see it, the 6-speed is more available if you break it, but it is a little bit more work to put another one in.

I love the fact that the P11 box holds 350whp perfectly without issues, and it bolts right up with much less work. But when you want over 500whp, there is a limited lifespan on a heavy car.

I'm sure on a classic or nx2k the p11 is more than enough trans to hold up to pretty much anything. The P10,P11,and SEL are just heavy cars.
2010-10-18 02:37:44
#58
Wow, today was a day! I had a headache from hell all day long, but i REALLY wanted to work on this project. I've got everything coming for this swap but need a new clutch. Other than that, everything else is on the way! Can't WAIT!

I pulled the old transmission out. After cleaning off a little bit of oil leak (distributor o ring leaks . The transmission looks great! If I don't sell it soon, I may just hang onto it for another project I have going. Looks like a P11 trans graveyard in my garage lol. I've got 3 transmissions, one with a broken case, one that has be rebuilt 4 times, and the one that was in my car. I took the drain plug out and there was just a couple small metal pieces on the drain bolt. Normal wear, no chunks or anything. Everything looks good.

My clutch disc looks pretty beat up though. The sintered iron started to break off like it does on the ceramic discs. It worked great, but the disc just doesn't look very good. I'll post pics soon.

I have the spevV trans case apart to do some measurements. But I need to get the pics up so you guys can see the comparison between the SER, P11, and the SPECV stacks. I think you guys will be surprised to see this.

After all that, I found out my wife's GA16 was leaking oil on my driveway. I checked the oil and it was 2 qts low. GRRRR. So I decided to buy some new oil, the 0w30 castrol loves to find leaks, got some durablend and some RIGHT STUFF. Took the oil pan off, and broke one of the bolts to the exhaust by the cat converter. Great.

I put it back together with right stuff and filled it back up. I gave the gasket maybe 5 min before I had it ready to put oil in. Seals the first time! I love RIGHT STUFF! Amazing stuff, and I recommend it to everyone! But I put everything back together, and the bolt that broke by the cat is causing an exhaust leak there. So now her ride sounds like a hoopty.

I will try and find the time to post the pics up soon. Stay posted!
2010-10-18 15:31:17
#59
I cant believe you ditched on me last night. hahaha j/k

I was anxiously awaiting your pics and measurements. Hurry up and get those pics and measurements up.

lol
2010-10-19 00:17:10
#60
Oh wow! there are a ton of pictures. This is going to take forever. But I will say that I had time to mount up the new altima clutch pedal. It doesn't look like its going to work. The top bolt where the pedal mounts is in a completely different spot and would require a bracket be fabricated to mount it properly. Even with a bracket, it likely will flex quite a bit more than the factory design. So it looks like the B15 clutch pedal will be used.

Ashton please link me to what you did with yours.

Here are my pics of the old clutch and the new pedal assembly. The pics are big, so use CTRL+MOUSE SCROLL to zoom in and out.
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