Thread: My 6 speed blogger. Swap complete! vids inside

As pictured above.

I have custom control arms that allowed me to adjust the bottom mount along with using my camber plate to adjust the upper mounting point. With adjustability at both mounting points I was able to fully dial in my KPI to adjust my scrub radius as need. Of course in doing so I had to alter my strut clevis to allow for direct camber adjustment. Don't get me wrong, I make it sound like a bad thing but really we should all be adjusting camber at the clevis not the top mount because altering the camber there (at the top mount via camber plates) also changes your KPI at the same time.

Note that my situation might be special as everyone's car is different; but I saw you had some torque steer and I'm betting that's where your problem lays just like in my case. And besides, after doing so much alteration to your suspension layout it don't hurt to check all those things.

KPI and castor are two different thing, though they do work hand in hand. KPI can be found on our car by drawing an imaginary line from the top pivot point (upper strut mount) to the bottom pivot point (control arm ball joint). You want negative scrub radius which means you want your KPI to intersect your camber line above the road. With my situation after my swap and all was done I had positive scrub radius on top of both sides not having equal scrub radius which gave me a very twitchy feel and some horrible torque steer.

My SAI was 15.9* left and 15.5* right. 15.5* is the max, 14.0 shows as minimum.
Included angle is 14.6 left, and 14.2 right. Range is between 12.7 and 15.7.
Camber is -1.3* and -1.4*

The car is lowered with the hyperco springs, and because of this the rear beam sits farther toward the driver side. I need to get what the spec V guys call a "QT link" to pull the wheels to the right a bit.

I’ll be honest with you until last weekend I thought that having my rear beam bent was the single best thing I’ve done for my rear end suspension; then I did this:



Hands down best use of money for our frame yet. Ditch the Scott-Russell link and go big boy style. If you do anything other than drive in a straight line this is by far the best option for us when it comes to the rear end geometry.

That is awesome. Where did you get that? Any more pics?

Anyone else have any alignment specs from a recent alignment they can post?

Btw my rear toe with the factory spec V beam is at .15* which I think is very little. Hard to imagine that much toe creating an issue with handling. The max spec is .25*.

so what has been the best gas mileage so far?

I logged 34mpg on the freeway on a 1 way trip to SLC doing 75mph. Not shabby.

I have been averaging about 22mpg. But the engine is too eager to let me baby it constantly.

I just want to say that this car is awesome.

Carry on.

Coheed, are you still on a stock intake manifold and throttle body? If so you have soo much more to gain with a nice manifold and Q45 throttle body.