Thread: vzr turbo project

Wow, great info there mate. Music to my ears about the pinking, due to the 280deg cams
It does say in the text that this will not work for cam switching as the situation changes slightly

But there will be next to no boost pressure on the low lobe cam anyway as you say, so should be ok

Cheers bud, not put my mind to rest yet


Does anyone know of a build project in English for turboing a 1.6 vvl?

Steve

No probs champ.

Yeah do the calcs on the high lobes as that is where damage from pinking will be done. Yeah sure you can detonate anywhere in the rpm but, the most damage will be done the higher the piston speed.

Just think of it as more things to tune. I have a feeling you will switch cams around 3600-3800rpm. You can always retard the timming a little before cam switch and then add a fair amount after. And if on the dyno you do detonate early you can always lower you switch point. This is why I think with vvl turbo set ups you need some form of a tunnable ecu. I wouldn't run a mail order tune as I doubt they will ask when you are switching cams.


The good news is you get the benifit of that 11:1 compression spooling up the turbo then switch the cams before things become dangerous. I personally think you will have a better power band than a sr20det as you will spool pretty similar maybe a little later but power will go to 8000rpm

Dont have any links to build projects...but miko is on the money so far.

sr20det manifold with holes elongated
gt28rs
+480cc injectors. If you can for the same price go 550's i would.
Tunable ecu, your choice really. I would let whoever is tunning the car choose. If you can remap the stock 16ve ecu that would be a good option as you have a 8200rpm limiter i think. Most remaps do let you change this anyway.
3 inch turbo back

That should cover it. I reckon you will end up running 10-15psi in the end

oh and ebay spec fmic

Cheers mate, again really helpful, especially with the cam switching spark

Got through to a guy in new Zealand who has a forged 1.6 vvl turbo ... perfect. He has given me a spec list, which is great.

Eagle h rods, wiesco flat pistons, gt2860rs (.86), hks ssqv bov, ic, oil cooler, 740cc inj, walbro 500hp pump, turbosmart FPR, High volume fuel rail adapter???, arp rod bolts, acl bearings, vvl headgasket, 3" downpipe, *link g4!*, light flywheel, 4 puck clutch, iat sensor

10 psi, 50% more power, 65% more torque over stock
Comp ratio 8.8:1 ... low! As opposed to 11.1 standard Sr16

Also boost comes at 2.5k, full at 3.5k, all the way to 8k redline, don't think I need to worry about off boost driving with low 8.8 compression

That now is the plan. You guys were spot on!

What do you guys think about the parts list?
Anything you would change?

Steve

Nothing wrong with that list. I would slap on the bolts on first though. for 10psi you wont need to build a forged motor. And if you did i would run higher static comp.

ah ok, you mean go with everything except the forged internals first, and if nothing protudes through the block , then go for uprated internals if i wanted more boost?

Steve

^^yeah pretty much. I doubt you will throw a rod out the side of the block. You should melt a piston before that. Then juats wack forgies in there...ir even better 1.8l 90mm pistons and sleaves

I ran all stock DET internals before with a 20ve head on 15 psi of boost and had no issues. The rods and the pistons you have on the list will help lighten things up but for a target of 350hp it sounds like an overkill.

If you wanna go higher than 350 the list you have sounds like a good idea making a bullet proof engine, with the disco potato I doubt you be frowning after your first run with a boosted VE, if it is your preventive measure and your pocket runs deep right now that seems to be a good way of doing it, throw in an 8 counterweight crank while you're at it.

OR, Take it one step at a time no one can fly into flying gotta learn how to walk, run and dance my two cents