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Thread: Major problem with t25 install

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Posts: 31-36 of 36
2010-06-04 16:42:51
#31
Yeah, routing to the ic piping is REALLY bad news. Blocking the pcv is one thing, but pushing air into the crankcase is worse. Hope everything turns out ok.
2010-06-06 04:27:19
#32
I am having another issue. I replaced my alternator last winter and everything was working fine with it until I boosted the car. The past two days I've seen my brake and battery light flash on and off. The terminals were tight as well as the connection on the alternator output. I drove the car last night and had zero issues with it. I drove it earlier today and again, zero issues.

A few hours ago I went out and ended up hitting a pothole that I didn't see. Suddenly the brake and alternator light came on. I found the negative terminals to be a bit loose so I replaced it thinking it would solve the problem. IT DIDN'T. The light was still on and the alternator was only putting out 12V. Battery voltage was at 12.4V. Thinking the pothole had something to do with it (since I didn't have any issues until then) I gently tapped the alternator housing and it worked! It was putting out 13.9V again. I drove the car about 10 miles with no issues and then BAM the lights came back on.

I'm wondering if the reason it's having issues is because the alternator is overheating due to the heat from the turbo. The driving I did last night was out of boost and the driving I did earlier today was also out of boost. When the lights came on tonight I was getting on it so the engine bay would be hotter. Anyone have this issue?
2010-06-06 05:03:35
#33
Originally Posted by FuLLah
I am having another issue. I replaced my alternator last winter and everything was working fine with it until I boosted the car. The past two days I've seen my brake and battery light flash on and off. The terminals were tight as well as the connection on the alternator output. I drove the car last night and had zero issues with it. I drove it earlier today and again, zero issues.

A few hours ago I went out and ended up hitting a pothole that I didn't see. Suddenly the brake and alternator light came on. I found the negative terminals to be a bit loose so I replaced it thinking it would solve the problem. IT DIDN'T. The light was still on and the alternator was only putting out 12V. Battery voltage was at 12.4V. Thinking the pothole had something to do with it (since I didn't have any issues until then) I gently tapped the alternator housing and it worked! It was putting out 13.9V again. I drove the car about 10 miles with no issues and then BAM the lights came back on.

I'm wondering if the reason it's having issues is because the alternator is overheating due to the heat from the turbo. The driving I did last night was out of boost and the driving I did earlier today was also out of boost. When the lights came on tonight I was getting on it so the engine bay would be hotter. Anyone have this issue?


I dont think the alternator is overheating. my sentra has been boosted for a few years now. daily driven and I have never had issues like that. not with my topmount T3 setup, or my current T25 setup. is your alternator wire on tight and are all the charging system plugs secure.
2010-06-06 05:37:59
#34
Originally Posted by PWRDbyUNCLEbens
When I first did my turbo setup I capped my pcv. Let's just say there was a lot of smoke...


I did that too on my first turbo build a couple years ago.
2010-06-06 15:59:38
#35
alternator is probably bad, get it tested and see if the posts are loose
2010-06-07 04:42:50
#36
I replaced the alternator earlier and all is good again. STUPID REMANUFACTURED Alternators!
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