Thread: STRATTON's OFFICIAL MOTOR BUILD !!

Beat the balls off it!!!!!!! race my grandma she has a Maxima VQ equiped.. ill set it up!!! j/k

Damn Strat looks like your going all out.If I had the cash I'd love to go standalone but funds are wayy short of that. Car should be a beast when done.

BTW I'd take Ashton's advice, with smaller turbos they create alot of stress within the motor so I'd go w2a or water injection. Larger turbos don't really stress engines that much, on my brothers VE he has stock headbolts, stock headgasket with a 60-1 @ 21psi. Not a single issue and the car is dd and taken to the track alot(11.56 best et). .02


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At-least some one agrees with me. The oem head gasket is flawless with a set of GE head studs and the GE's would be over kill because the stock head bolts can stand the power that turbo will put out so that's your extra security. Hit gregV for VET head gasket

x2 on the hard break in.

Have you even looked at any tuning software available for the stock ecu, regular daughterboards or Nistune? Full control has been available for more than a few years now.


Stratton, best of luck with your build. You seem to be willing to pony up the money to do things right. I hope John is assembling and tuning the new motor, he is good.

thanks p10 and setzer.

setzer, i dont know who john is ? or at least dont know who your exactly refering to.

jun and my self will be assembling the motor.

im heading to jmr now.

stratton.

Word. Did you ask any of the guys that were tuning it what the EGTs were? Who tuned it?

I know when I've been around cars that are being tuned, the guy in the car is usually dedicated to staring at the EGT and A/F gauges (as well as the tach) to bail out in case sh*t gets out of hand. Usually, the sh*t hits the fan around torque peak (usually right after reaching peak boost on a T2-based turbo)

No matter how you slice it or what happened, it's still a bummer your motor went.

Either way, as I've been telling people for years: you want power? Ditch the vagina turbo and throw a T3 or larger exhaust section on there.

You also might want to look into rerouting the coolant hardlines on the back so it doesn't recirculate. Basically, eliminate the small hardline coming out of the back of the head next to the oil filter and drill some bypass holes into the T-stat or its housing to allow coolant flow when it's closed. If you need a coolant temp sensor, move it to the upper hose outlet, or pinch the hardline and weld it shut. You'll lose your heater unless you add some bungs to the large pipe, and it'll take longer to warm up, but this is the best way to keep a stressed out SR20 cool. Additionally, you can push the boost/timing/mixture a little since you won't be recirculating hot coolant anymore. Still need to keep an eye on EGTs, but it'll run a lot better for those longer runs or runs that are back to back.

I believe that I know what John you are talking about, LOL.... I don't want to bring up the JMR thing again but I am sure it won't be Jun building the engine or tuning it for that matter.

^ and how the **** do you know ^ ?

are you taking a guess ? do you have a crystal ball in wich you can see into the future ? do you know something i dont know ?

myself and junior will be assembling every part on this motor along with putting it back in the car.

stop talking **** when you have no ****ing clue wtf you are talking about !

how the **** are you gonna come in my thread and tell me whos building my motor ?

anyway....

grabbed my pistons and rods and main studs, dropped the block off at the machine shop today.

87mm baby !! jun didnt even tell me he ordered that size, but im happy he did.

ordered 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 braided loom today from summit. paint should be here some time next week. fenders and some power washing and prepping of the bay tomorrow .itll be two weeks till we get the block back, machine shop is swamped. wich is fine i have alot going on with the car and have some more work coming up.

stratton.

Too much drama in this thread. Good luck with the build. I would have ditched using main studs. For the reason that using them will a lot of times distort the main caps and block due to the way the clamp force is displaced. Every single company that i have talked to said to have the main journals line honed after installing the studs.

I personally just used the Gtir main bolts as they are stronger than the stocks and there is really no need for main studs. The bolts cost me $40 from GregV.

But hey, not my build. And good luck like i said.

And just because the motor is build doesnt mean it can withstand the heat from the small turbos being pushed. Those pistons will melt just as fast as the stockers if heat becomes an issue. Just keep a close eye on things during tuning when the boost is up high.