Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
SR20 forum logo


+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 91-100 of 111
2010-05-21 03:07:08
Originally Posted by STRATTON
break it in 'ugh' and then once thats done go back re-tune it for higher boost.


Beat the balls off it!!!!!!! race my grandma she has a Maxima VQ equiped.. ill set it up!!! j/k
2010-05-21 03:57:54
Damn Strat looks like your going all out.If I had the cash I'd love to go standalone but funds are wayy short of that. Car should be a beast when done.

BTW I'd take Ashton's advice, with smaller turbos they create alot of stress within the motor so I'd go w2a or water injection. Larger turbos don't really stress engines that much, on my brothers VE he has stock headbolts, stock headgasket with a 60-1 @ 21psi. Not a single issue and the car is dd and taken to the track alot(11.56 best et). .02

2010-05-21 04:17:42
Originally Posted by Payu
Actually the problem is the timing when you get into full boost and leaning the the mixture via SAFC if you have to take out a lot of fuel to tune via SAFC you are also adding timing on those spots were you are removing fuel.... Since whenever you use negative #'s on the SAFC actually you add timing to the ECU too... for your knowledge... the piston crack the ring land when it sees detonation period... when you have the timing too advanced on the timing map when the motor hit full boost or at peak torque.... or at peak hp too.... you can have the AFR's on the perfect spot ans still crack the ring lands on stock pistons because of over advanced timing....

And as a comment for your build use either Mazworz ARP's or GE try not to use the regular ARP's and as of the head gasket even the OEM one should be fine for your goal...

At-least some one agrees with me. The oem head gasket is flawless with a set of GE head studs and the GE's would be over kill because the stock head bolts can stand the power that turbo will put out so that's your extra security. Hit gregV for VET head gasket
2010-05-21 04:33:52
Originally Posted by Uh
Beat the balls off it!!!!!!! race my grandma she has a Maxima VQ equiped.. ill set it up!!! j/k

x2 on the hard break in.
2010-05-21 04:48:24
Originally Posted by Johnny
No $150 ECU will make 400whp on a GT2871r. It might with a tubular manifold and a nice sheet metal Intake manifold. But then you couldve made 430-450 with a stand alone.

Check out my Dyno thread here for my car if you can find it. I realized first hand why a stand alone is so much better then just a chipped ECU. I pretty much found the limits of the setup with my car and then realized that I would need either A: More boost to hit my 400whp goal, OR, B: something that will let me touch timing and up it in the spots where its needs to be upped. Option A would require race gas, meth injections, or something to keep the pistons cool and avoid detonating. Option B would cost about $1000. But then I can touch EVERYTHING going on with the engine and tune it to exactly where it needs to be. Not around about where it needs to be. My A/F's were perfectly on point. But to prove to myself that the timing needed to be touched. I upped the timing without putting the car in timing mode (the ECU will eventually correct it) on the dyno and made 20more WHP with 1lbs LESS boost. This was without even knowing for sure what the timing marks on my pulley were. Now if I had upped the base timing the correct way (im pretty sure we upped it from about 12deg to about 15-16degs) Id be willing to bet I couldve made 375whp or something around that. But Id still be down about 25whp for what my turbo shuld be doing at 20psi.

Not to mention, the fact that with a stand alone you can run the MOST timing possible at every RPM to make the most power at every RPM. Now im not saying the SAFC2/Chipped ECU isnt good for a set it and forget it setup. But to get the MOST out of a specific turbo...one chosen for its good power band...your gonna need to be able to do more then just play with the A/F's. The other half is that you HAVE to play with the timing. Hell even the DE guys are getting 5-8whp from just bumping the base timing up. Imagine if you could optimise the whole map! Its not just about peak power. Having the ability to tune your mid and low range timing is where the good stuff lies.

To have a simple setup is one thing. But to have a setup thats fully tuned in everyway...you will walk guys with the same/ bigger turbo setups all day long.

Have you even looked at any tuning software available for the stock ecu, regular daughterboards or Nistune? Full control has been available for more than a few years now.

Stratton, best of luck with your build. You seem to be willing to pony up the money to do things right. I hope John is assembling and tuning the new motor, he is good.
2010-05-21 15:29:35
thanks p10 and setzer.

setzer, i dont know who john is ? or at least dont know who your exactly refering to.

jun and my self will be assembling the motor.

im heading to jmr now.

2010-05-21 15:47:19
Originally Posted by STRATTON
no on the dyno. it started smoking once they tried to raise the boost.

rockwood i was not there when it was getting tuned so i have no idea what the egts were.


Word. Did you ask any of the guys that were tuning it what the EGTs were? Who tuned it?

I know when I've been around cars that are being tuned, the guy in the car is usually dedicated to staring at the EGT and A/F gauges (as well as the tach) to bail out in case sh*t gets out of hand. Usually, the sh*t hits the fan around torque peak (usually right after reaching peak boost on a T2-based turbo)

No matter how you slice it or what happened, it's still a bummer your motor went.

Either way, as I've been telling people for years: you want power? Ditch the vagina turbo and throw a T3 or larger exhaust section on there.

You also might want to look into rerouting the coolant hardlines on the back so it doesn't recirculate. Basically, eliminate the small hardline coming out of the back of the head next to the oil filter and drill some bypass holes into the T-stat or its housing to allow coolant flow when it's closed. If you need a coolant temp sensor, move it to the upper hose outlet, or pinch the hardline and weld it shut. You'll lose your heater unless you add some bungs to the large pipe, and it'll take longer to warm up, but this is the best way to keep a stressed out SR20 cool. Additionally, you can push the boost/timing/mixture a little since you won't be recirculating hot coolant anymore. Still need to keep an eye on EGTs, but it'll run a lot better for those longer runs or runs that are back to back.
2010-05-21 17:49:44
I believe that I know what John you are talking about, LOL.... I don't want to bring up the JMR thing again but I am sure it won't be Jun building the engine or tuning it for that matter.
2010-05-21 23:23:14
Originally Posted by totaled200ser
I am sure it won't be Jun building the engine or tuning it for that matter.

^ and how the **** do you know ^ ?

are you taking a guess ? do you have a crystal ball in wich you can see into the future ? do you know something i dont know ?

myself and junior will be assembling every part on this motor along with putting it back in the car.

stop talking **** when you have no ****ing clue wtf you are talking about !

how the **** are you gonna come in my thread and tell me whos building my motor ?


grabbed my pistons and rods and main studs, dropped the block off at the machine shop today.

87mm baby !! jun didnt even tell me he ordered that size, but im happy he did.

ordered 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 braided loom today from summit. paint should be here some time next week. fenders and some power washing and prepping of the bay tomorrow .itll be two weeks till we get the block back, machine shop is swamped. wich is fine i have alot going on with the car and have some more work coming up.

2010-05-22 00:42:23
Too much drama in this thread. Good luck with the build. I would have ditched using main studs. For the reason that using them will a lot of times distort the main caps and block due to the way the clamp force is displaced. Every single company that i have talked to said to have the main journals line honed after installing the studs.

I personally just used the Gtir main bolts as they are stronger than the stocks and there is really no need for main studs. The bolts cost me $40 from GregV.

But hey, not my build. And good luck like i said.

And just because the motor is build doesnt mean it can withstand the heat from the small turbos being pushed. Those pistons will melt just as fast as the stockers if heat becomes an issue. Just keep a close eye on things during tuning when the boost is up high.
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)

    Back to top