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Thread: Anyone Running Non-Synthetic 20w50?

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Posts: 11-20 of 44
2010-04-28 18:59:18
#11
It's my understanding that engines were built a little more loose back in our car's days. Considering that oil recommendations have slowly switched to lighter, and lighter weight oils over the years. I think if you run your engine harder then that average person, and your turbocharged then the thicker oil is totally necessary. However that is my opinion, and bears no scientific backing.
2010-04-28 19:12:03
#12
what about rottela t 5w 40 full senthetic i was told to use it so after i put my turbo in it filled with that but havnt drove it due to no ecu
2010-04-28 23:38:39
#13
Rotella synth ftw.

Most of the synthetics these days are still a group III, just like non-synths, but are far more durable because of the distillation/molecular structure. Just a lot more refined.

The VR1 is good oil, but do not use it on the street. It is a racing oil, and should be treated as such. Putting miles on that oil will show mechanical shearing, so the oil will thin out. It also lacks any sort of respectable dispersant package, so sludge will form more readily than a street oil.

Best compromise for cleanliness and wear is still the HDEO diesel oils.
2010-04-29 00:09:28
#14
I said this in my thread. I believe that the choice of oil should come down to #1 oil pressure readings and #2 preference in brand/type. Synthetic only of course.

FSM recommends for N14 SR20DET: 10w30 year around. 5w30 ONLY be used in 'extremely cold situations'. NEVER to use 5w20. For hot areas anything 10w40 and up, but oil pressure has to be the gauge you use to pick. I wouldn't just throw a few dices and pick a weight off the shelf. Find out what oil your engine works best with and maintains good oil pressure.

Too thick of an oil, if anything, will cause worse gas mileage.
2010-04-29 00:52:34
#15
Originally Posted by Coheed
Rotella synth ftw.

Most of the synthetics these days are still a group III, just like non-synths, but are far more durable because of the distillation/molecular structure. Just a lot more refined.

The VR1 is good oil, but do not use it on the street. It is a racing oil, and should be treated as such. Putting miles on that oil will show mechanical shearing, so the oil will thin out. It also lacks any sort of respectable dispersant package, so sludge will form more readily than a street oil.

Best compromise for cleanliness and wear is still the HDEO diesel oils.



what do you like better valvoline synthpower or penzoil ultra? i have a pep boys gift card and was looking to do a oil change, but alls they have are penzoil ultra,valvoline vr1/synthpower... they dont have rotella t just shell 10w40

so between the 2 synthpower or penzoil ultra?
2010-04-29 02:15:08
#16
just curious if you were looking at the VR1 why don't you just try the regular valvoline synpower 20w-50?
2010-04-29 02:43:43
#17
well its between the synthpower vs the pennzoil ultra
2010-04-29 03:37:53
#18
I would give the pennz a shot. It is made by Shell now and all the BITOG results for the new pennz comes up as really stout stuff. They don't publish IVA sequence IV wear results for the pennzoil, but the Valvoline wears 4x better than Mobil 1 in the 5w30.

Pennzoil ain't what she used to be, and that's a good thing.
2010-04-29 04:17:23
#19
ive heard its good to use turbo diesel oil on turbo cars. Mobile 1 has synthetic diesel oil. JUst curious
2010-04-29 04:18:54
#20
i also use penz platinum in my sr20det and i like it so far. switching from 5w30 to 10w40 tommorrow to get ready for fl summer heat and see if that helps my oil pressure
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