Thread: Lifted head (again)

PLS MAKE SURE YOU SPECIFY GE HEADSTUDS WHEN YOU ORDER!

Make sure you put in comments that you only want GE head studs and not the ARPs. A friend of mine ordered GE and got ARP instead. He just used them anyway. But make sure you guys specify in the order so it doesn't happen to you.

...your TQ wrench is either off calibration, or you did not stretch them enough. 5 times full TQ sequence on brand new ARPs is standard procedure if you're running a metal HG.

How much power are you making cliff?

Trust me, they're stretched correctly. I didn't buy some cheap torque wrench from Harbor Freight. I spent good money on it, and it's calibrated correctly.

Thanks.



Right now, the tune drifted a tad bit so I'm around ~380whp daily. I was around 420whp at the same boost, but I'm running richer now than I was a month ago.


All this aside, I think I may have found out the real issue. I grabbed a really bright flashlight, and practically leaned on the motor in the bay to get as close as possible, and I found out where she's been leaking from. The half moon that's on the intake side isn't seated properly, and that's where all the oil is coming from. That's reassuring.

I definitely need a new radiator, and I need to start replacing some of the junk hoses that are running around in the engine bay.

Good stuff. Well, I torqued my arps down to the specified torque and sequence with the cometic. Even with completely flat block and head surfaces, with the machining marks removed. I still had issues. I just didnt think they were issues until the motor came apart.

The studs were still extremely tight in the block.

anyway you can see from those pics the way the cometic leaves a big gap around the dowel. This caused the gasket to want to move around quite a bit.

Nice pictures Coheed
This thread has got me thinking.
I have stock head gasket (2 years old) and arp head bolts. I'm in the 280's at 15psi. I do plan on bumping it to 18 with higher octane fuel (just on race days). Should I be concerned?

I don't know if it is an issue with the ARP studs. But all my friends that have used cometic have had issues with them not sealing right. The arp are made of stronger material than the GE studs, and use a lot more torque. Perhaps it really does dial down to a poor design on the studs?

At any rate, making over 400whp at the strip caused some coolant to get pushed out after several runs.

Hey man, link me to that tool that you're using. That's used to lap the surface of the block, correct? If this is what I think it is, I need one STAT. I'd much rather treat the surface myself, than take it somewhere to have it done.

I actually borrowed if from my friend at the machine shop. If you were to buy one, it would prob cost you a ton of money. That thing weighs a bit and looks expensive. But I got to do it myself for free.