Thread: Whose running a codeless SR20DE-T (OBDII)?

I think that's what I'm going to do because the sensor is pulling the timing past 5,000 rpm. It makes no sense having a turbo if I can't redline!

What about the idle control code? anyone ever had that before after a turbo install?

Did you touch the IACV by any chance? Maybe it's leaking due to boost.

Idle Air Control Valve or Idle Air Regulator. Make sure the gaskets are good and they don't leak (and check the condition of the hoses on the regulator).

I did remove the IACV once to clean it but that was almost a full year before I went turbo. I replaced the gasket when I put it back as well. My car idles at 850 rpm but sometimes (random) when I'm coming to a stop and clutch in the idle climbs to about 1500 rpm.

Might be the MAF too. Have you tried a different one? What tune are you running also? Some tune's have the MAF low voltage set too high, what that does is tells the car to rev up once it hits that voltage. Say an E60 Maf is normally at 1.0v, if you go below that it will think your stalling and try to recover itself.

If your maf is normally reading at 1.10v then it's not hard to hit that limit either.

Apparently I have a new code HAHAHA. I forgot to write down the exact code but it was related to the cam position sensor. I looked under the distributor and saw there is apparently an oil leak underneath it. Is that common on these cars after 100k miles? I am still using the factory distributor. I think there might be oil or something on the cam sensor causing the code.

The knock sensor is disabled for the JWT computers, so I always get a stored code for that.

If you have a JWT computer the knock sensor won't affect any driveability at all.

I had access to a diagnostic computer today but didn't get a chance to have my friend look at the data yet. Anything jump out at you guys? just a quick note..all readings are positive. the "-" is just to separate the information and does not represent negative values.

Screenshot 1

engine speed- 1088 rpm
coolant temp sensor- 140* f
intake air temp-75*f
a/c pressure switch-off
a/c relay-off
a/c signal-off
absolute pressure sensor -4.22 volts
absolute throttle pos-0.0%
base fuel schedule-2.6msec
battery voltage-14.5v
boost vacuum switch-off
brake switch-off
can con vc switch-off
catalyst-not complete
clothes throttle pos-on
clutch pedal position-released
coolant fan high-off
coolant fan low-off
egr system- complete
egr temp sensor- 2.58 volts
egr volume control valve-.5 steps
evap system pressure- 3.44 volts
evap monitor-o
evap system-complete
fuel control valve cycle-off
fuel control valve engine-off
fuel level sensor-1.08 volts
fuel pump relay-on
fuel tank temperature-52*f
Ho2s0- not complete
Ho2s heater-complete
Ho2s1bank 1- 180mV
Ho2s2 bank 1-290 mV
Heated catalyst-not complete
Heater fan switch-off
Iacv idle/up-off
Iacv val aux air control-18.0 steps
Idle air colume learn-not complete
Ignition switch-on
Ignition timing-14*
Injector pw bank 1-2.8msec
Load singal-off
Maf sensor volt-1.40 volts
Mass air flow-3.6g/s
Throttle position sensor-.30 volts
Vehicle speed-0 MPH

Screen shot 2

Engine rpm-950 rpm
Throttle position-0%
Engine coolant temperature-158*f
Intake air temperature-75*f
Vehicle speed-0
Spark Advance-12*
Cal engine load -20.8%
Fuel system status bank 1-closed
Fuel system status bank2-disabled
Long term ft bank 1-9.4%
Mass airflow-2.80g/s

Just an update, I was able to get rid of almost all the codes I had except for "p0325 knock sensor circuit 1 ". I can't get rid of this code for the life of me and it's not boost related because even after driving 60 miles without going out of vacuum the code still shows up as pending.

How can I make it go away so I can do my inspection?

Replaced the knock sensor right? Wire might be shorted too.