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Thread: wrong vacuum lines on roller rocker?

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Posts: 11-20 of 28
2010-03-31 19:04:55
#11
Originally Posted by matt_pound
whenever i run a line to the WG i run it from the hotpipe
drill and tap and put in a threaded nipple


My current outlet has it there, not sure if I like it there though. I heard that having it that close to the turbo is not good either, not as accurate boosting due to pressure drops.


2010-03-31 19:15:13
#12
Originally Posted by Vadim

Wastegates are not really designed for vacuum but I have had no issues with having vacuum going to it, it does help the wastegate to close faster after you let go of gas.


Most waste gates should only see boost. You run the risk of tearing the diaphragm if it references vacuum. It is probably not a big deal for internal gates. However, on some external gates, the vacuum can pull the diaphragm into the threaded barb fitting(s), eventually wearing through it.
2010-03-31 22:50:10
#13
ok guys I have an update. We haz boost!

So what my friend did was t off the fpr line for the boost gauge and the blow off valve and he used another t at the line on the throttle body that mirrortints posted the picture of above. The car builds boost and the gauge and bov both work as well. The gauge is stopping at 7psi so everything seems normal. The only issue right now is that it's idling at 1300 RPM when when it's warm but the egr still didn't get blocked off and the downpipe needs to be connected so we'll see how that goes.

Someone on b15sentra wrote this though, just wanted to see what u guys think
The wastegate should come off the turbo outlet, ideally. You can also put it off anywhere in the i/c piping before the throttle plate. You don't want a vac line from the intake manifold, because you won't be able to control boost from it at part throttle. You'll get boost creep and overpressure in your i/c piping.
2010-04-01 01:29:39
#14
For internal gates I've heard it all thus I ran it from a vacuum source myself and it worked flawlessly. I ran out of ports on my positive air sources on my T25 setup thus used a vacuum source. Now I have the one right by the turbo.
2010-04-01 01:37:13
#15
Originally Posted by FuLLah
ok guys I have an update. We haz boost!

So what my friend did was t off the fpr line for the boost gauge and the blow off valve and he used another t at the line on the throttle body that mirrortints posted the picture of above. The car builds boost and the gauge and bov both work as well. The gauge is stopping at 7psi so everything seems normal. The only issue right now is that it's idling at 1300 RPM when when it's warm but the egr still didn't get blocked off and the downpipe needs to be connected so we'll see how that goes.

Someone on b15sentra wrote this though, just wanted to see what u guys think


I concur with the quote you posted. Boost control is more difficult when a vac/boost source is used. Matter of fact I'm working thru an issue right now similar to yours. It's hard to explain to people sometimes the correct way to hook everything up.
2010-04-01 03:30:54
#16
ok so i am the friend! an i tried relocating the vac line an now all is good... thanks for all the input for everyone...
2010-04-01 05:09:27
#17
Originally Posted by SpecVlol
ok so i am the friend! an i tried relocating the vac line an now all is good... thanks for all the input for everyone...


Nice username there guy

OK so I have two related turbo question..

Let's talk about widebands for a bit.

1.I understand the point of the wideband for tuning purposes but if you're not going to be tuning the car yourself is a wideband still something that's mandatory? I mean after the car is tuned all you do with the wideband is monitor the a/f ratios. The problem though is that the wideband sensor is further downstream. It seems to me that if there's an issue with the a/f ratio having a wideband wouldn't really allow you to do anything about it because the combustion already happened in your motor.

So basically the question is, for someone who doesn't tune the car themself does a wideband serve any function besides monitoring the a/f ratio?

-------------
2. I know in the write ups on sr20forum they say it's recommended that the turbo install be done in steps to avoid massive headaches if troubleshooting needs to be done. It says one step is to install all your fuel stuff (regulator, injectors, pump). My question is, let's say I wanted to prep my car for turbo further down the line and I went ahead and changed the pump and added bigger injectors, would the car run pig rich or would the ecu be able to correct that and only add as much fuel as needed?
2010-04-01 14:08:12
#18
1. Wideband is not a must, but I know I wouldn't be able to peacefully drive my car without it. But I am a tuner.

If you are going to make changes and then go get it tuned by someone, they should be able to tune it to be safe enough for where you wont need the wideband yourself.

If you plan on changing things around, anything fuel or air related, then I would highly suggest it.
Fuel related can be Fuel pump, FPR, injectors, etc.
Air related would be MAF, MAF Position, Cams (let more air and fuel in), Flow Stacks, etc.


2. What kind of ECU are you sporting? You can have fuel pump, FPR, Injectors all in and have it tuned for that, until you get the snail on, then just update your tune.

70% of my driving is out of boost, I have 550 CC injectors. Out of boost it doesn't matter if I have 550CC or 270CC.
2010-04-02 12:46:50
#19
Can one wideband work on more than one car? For example once I have my car tuned can I then use the setup on fullahs car?
2010-04-02 12:47:37
#20
Sure you can, depending on the wideband you get.

For instance, something highly portable like an Innovate LM-1 wideband is perfect.
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