Thread: General Consensus: Lifted head...

cool! Now get a new rad cap so i can have mine back lol

And there you have it!

I'll get one from the stealership tomorrow and be sure to get yours back to you, Jensen. Give me a shout, I need to see what time I need to come get all my crap from your storage room before your inspection, and help you clean out the engine room and anything else.

Just a side note I have heard of people torquing them down totally right away or over torquing head studs and ruining the integrity of the studs. Something to do with the glass finish or some ****.

I've heard of this as well. I always torque headstuds/mainstuds/etc. down in four steps. I never "re-torqued" them, because I had to pull the head off after the Apexi headgasket was damaged. around the timing cover

Once I put the cometic on and torqued the head, I counted this as having the headstuds retorqued. They were already subjected to heat cycles prior to swapping headgaskets.

Oh, yes. First time I tried to torque them down to 90lb.ft on the last torque spec, I ripped the aluminum block thread for the 10th stud (the final one!).

Then I had to tear everything apart and get another block... Later, that block lifted the head because I didnt re-torque

So, I guess aftermaket head studs are too much, and decided OEM new ones torqued as per the FSM are enough for me.

See, I thought I was having the same issue, this is why I didn't go beyond 95ftlbs. The 10th stud I torqued down didn't seem to want to go any further than 95, and I wasn't going to force it to have to pull apart and rebuild the block.

Joel and Jamie and a few others mentioned that if your torque specs aren't the same with all of the headstuds, that the weakest link will fail. So in reality it's better that I retorqued all at 95ftlbs.

Is this with arp's tek? I torqued my ge's down in the block and they seemed pretty damned tight (even though I can't remember what it was). I wonder if this is due to the fact that they actually bottom out. Seems like the nuts would torque down fairly easy without stripping the block. I'll find out, I'm picking my head up from the shop this week.

Well the block isn't a total loss if you lose threads. Not a big deal at all.

Steel inserts are easy to have put in, and will be stronger than the aluminum in the long run. I had my Crank studs done with metal sleeves because of this. It costs money, sure, but knowing it will be stronger makes it worth keeping the same block.

I will tell you I was nervous as hell torqueing down the crank studs. I though for sure I would pull those metal inserts out. But they have held up awesome. And with the final torque down, I could spin the crank by hand easily. Gotta love good machining!

Mazworks upgraded stud time !!