Welcome to the SR20 Community Forum - The Dash.
Register
SR20 forum logo

Thread: Interesting find with Valvoline Oil

+ Reply To Thread
Posts: 11-20 of 46
2010-01-26 17:16:26
#11
Originally Posted by Cliff
I could probably get away with a lighter viscosity (5) in the winter in colder temps, but I wouldn't recommend it during summer months on a built motor. It would actually probably quiet down the motor a bit on cold starts, as well.


My father rebuilt catapillar diesel engines way back in the day, and I remember changing his oil and him telling me that I should always run a 10w40 in the summer and a 10w30 in the winter. Guess it's just one of those things that stuck with me?


I run 5w30 or 5w40 in winter months, after that it is a 10w30, 5w40, or 20w50. This is speaking about a wide variety of vehicles I see everyday, not just SR20's
2010-01-26 17:26:52
#12
I've been running Valvoline for like 2 years. They had some tests done while I worked there that the representative guys did or something that proved it was better then mobile 1. I've never had a problem with it. Let alone I get it for free
2010-01-26 20:28:55
#13
I am using Mobile1 unfortunately, just waiting for my next change to try something new. My oil pressure with Mobile1 SUCKS after a few days of driving. I was looking at Valvoline and German Castrol (am I correct that I just look for Castrol Syntec at AZ or something and find the one labeled "Made in Germany"?). I saw another thread where Coheed says he has been using Rotella successfully. I'm thinking about running that on my next change - think about it, it is made for heavy duty use for turbos and such. What do you all think? I'm torn between all 3 options. lol
2010-01-26 20:29:30
#14
I like supertech full synthetic 10w30 in the G20 and Rotella 5w40 full synthetic in the Miata.

I ran M1 15w50 during the summer in my VE powered NX and DET powered SE-R since they both saw track time.
2010-01-26 22:13:30
#15
Originally Posted by Nathan_Barstow
I am using Mobile1 unfortunately, just waiting for my next change to try something new. My oil pressure with Mobile1 SUCKS after a few days of driving. I was looking at Valvoline and German Castrol (am I correct that I just look for Castrol Syntec at AZ or something and find the one labeled "Made in Germany"?). I saw another thread where Coheed says he has been using Rotella successfully. I'm thinking about running that on my next change - think about it, it is made for heavy duty use for turbos and such. What do you all think? I'm torn between all 3 options. lol


Yes that's correct, it might also have "European Formula" on the front of the bottle too.
2010-01-27 04:08:04
#16
The shell rotella is good stuff. I use the 5w40 in my b14 and it looks the same at 1k as it did when I put it in.
2010-01-27 04:37:55
#17
I've had pretty good results with valvoline.

But then I switched to rotella 15w40. I'm never going to anything else. Absolutely no consumption and the oil doesn't break down as fast.

I tried mobil1 a coupl,e of times in a row and that stuff just broke down real quick, waste of money imo.
2010-01-27 05:38:01
#18
Originally Posted by mike4387
The shell rotella is good stuff. I use the 5w40 in my b14 and it looks the same at 1k as it did when I put it in.


I wouldn't quiet say that's a good thing. Oil's job, along with lubrication, is to pickup dirt and sediments that can occur from the engine sitting, cold starting, or regular use. Thus if the oil is actually keeping that dirt, then it should get darker, if not that means it's getting scattered someplace over the engine.

Don't get me wrong here, oil should not be dirty right after the oil change, but it should start getting darker with more miles. The reason oil will be dark right after you change it is actually quiet simple. Oil pan has oil left over in it, in case you ever start the motor and forgot to fill it up. Thus a lot of times this can be very dirty oil and needs to be flushed down with a some clean oil.
I simply keep the drain plug off and pour oil into the engine until I see clear oil coming out of the oil pan.
2010-01-27 05:56:59
#19
Originally Posted by Vadim
I wouldn't quiet say that's a good thing. Oil's job, along with lubrication, is to pickup dirt and sediments that can occur from the engine sitting, cold starting, or regular use. Thus if the oil is actually keeping that dirt, then it should get darker, if not that means it's getting scattered someplace over the engine.

Don't get me wrong here, oil should not be dirty right after the oil change, but it should start getting darker with more miles. The reason oil will be dark right after you change it is actually quiet simple. Oil pan has oil left over in it, in case you ever start the motor and forgot to fill it up. Thus a lot of times this can be very dirty oil and needs to be flushed down with a some clean oil.
I simply keep the drain plug off and pour oil into the engine until I see clear oil coming out of the oil pan.



Sorry vadim I was referring to the thickness of the oil. What I was talking about was the rotella doesn't look like the mobil 1 I was using before that looked like water. The rotella didn't break down near what the mobil 1 did. The rotella is in fact darker but still not too much darker than new.
2010-01-27 06:01:10
#20
Originally Posted by mike4387
Sorry vadim I was referring to the thickness of the oil. What I was talking about was the rotella doesn't look like the mobil 1 I was using before that looked like water. The rotella didn't break down near what the mobil 1 did. The rotella is in fact darker but still not too much darker than new.


Sweet in that case that's good to hear. I will put it on my to try list
+ Reply To Thread
  • [Type to search users.]
  • Quick Reply
    Thread Information
    There are currently ? users browsing this thread. (? members & ? guests)
    StubUserName

    Back to top