Thread: Dyno numbers from today (Controversy begin!)

Some interesting things happened today.

First and foremost, my damn thermostat was sticking so I had to replace it before even thinking about the dyno. Joel took me up to the dealership to get a new OEM one. Working fine, except I still get pockets of cold air thru the heater core, and then it heats up again. I wonder if the cooling system is working TOO well. Only 25 degrees outside. Temp gauge (the stock idiot one) stays pretty steady.

Anyhow, found out that all this time I've had a 1 bar spring and my stupid gauge in the car is off. So that means ~15psi net me 411whp during the last dyno session that was done in February-March 2009 timeframe (Ben, I know you're reading this so update your sheet )

I had a manual boost controller, but even with it bypassed the boost pressure was around 18psi. I yanked the boost controller off assuming it was defective, and swapped it for another one. Didn't put it back on and increase the boost during the dyno pulls. Just wanted to see where I was at with the pig rich tune, (10.2~10.4AFR)

For you non-thread readers:
With all of that being said, I had 372whp @ 7771 RPM, and 265wtq @ 6703 RPM. I'll post a dyno graph a little bit later.

THIS is what gets interesting... All pulls were done in 4th gear on a Dynapack. He set the final ratios up to read as accurately as possible, and something didn't add up. With the ratios set at a 98 SE-R or 99 P11 gear ratio (4th at .975 and FD at 4.176), the dyno was shutting down WAY off. The rev limiter on the ECU is set to 7800rpm. The dyno was reporting only 75xxrpm, when the car was bouncing from the rev limiter.

I got the spreadsheet open (Thanks Mirrortints!) and looked at the ratios, and the 99 P11 or 98 SE-R ratios just aren't matching the dyno AT ALL. Looking at other stacks, the ONLY gearstack that was dead on with the dyno was a B15 SE gearstack. Not possible FWIR, since I'm told the gearstacks arent interchangeable between the B14 and B15 case.

When I post up the dyno, you'll notice that at 6703RPM, I'm only at 115mph! This isn't sitting well with me right now. It just doesn't make sense based on this observation:

Driving in 5TH GEAR in my car on the highway, at 70mph, the tach is at 3500rpm (3200RPM corrected, I think)... This is the equivilent of a B14 gearstack, according to the worksheet and my specific tire diameter.

In order for the dyno to read accurately and shut down the pull at the correct RPM, we had to use the gearstack information from a B15 SE transmission.

I don't know how to determine what's going on here, because the dynapack bolts directly to the hubs, so technically the tire diameter shouldn't even come into the equation.

Anyone know how to better explain this than me?

Okay so after playing around with the worksheet a lot, I've come to the conclusion that the closest I can get everything line up is with a B14 tranny, with a 4.108 FD ratio.

I will update that part of the dyno thread, but it will look wrong unless you edit your post in that thread as well.

These new numbers are at ~15 psi as well? Just to remind us, what has changed between Feb-March and now?

nice meeting you today tek

car is niiice!

I'll edit the post with the updated information. As soon as I get the dynosheet scanned I'll upload it. The only thing that changed was the tune. My dyno tuned B14 Realtime was sold, and I now have a B13 Realtime, that hasn't been fine tuned yet. Both the old numbers and new numbers should show ~15psi. I was rather embarrassed considering this whole time my boost gauge in cabin has been lying to me, and I've been telling everyone it made that power at 11.2~11.5psi. :o I consider this my baseline to start from.



You too bro! Thanks for the compliment.

Dynosheet:


Note the Drive Ratio has nothing to do with the overall power outcome, since all runs were done in 4th gear.

With tuning you will be right at the 400 mark again this is stupid rich making me almost die from the fumes

Yeah we were getting smoked out of the car pretty badly

Glad you came down and made it back to NJ safely. We'll be in touch!

Looking from the graph you should consider check for boost leak your peak torque its way too late.. You can check your boost plot too to see where you are getting full boost usually peak torque comes close to full boost and I doubt you are getting full boost that late considering your setup.. Or also it could be that your timing it very low when you reach full boost.. But not bad for a untuned pass... You should be able to get close to 400 whp once its tuned...

Thanks. I'm going to check for leaks again, and look for signs of damage to the wastegate housing. It IS a TiAL... Hopefully it's around 411-415 like last year . I would like to starting the 400's, not in the high 3's