Thread: Yada yada, more dynos.

3rd gear is nice though. It is fun to effortlessly break the tires loose without even slamming a gear. Just rolling onto the throttle produces a fat burnout pegging the limiter all the way to 100mph. Is it possible to spin tires at 100mph with under 400whp in a B14 with full interior?

Last time I was disappointed I added 4* timing and made over 60whp increase. That could be my issue. But too much timing could make things go boom.

i would definitely do something in order to tune the car.

emissions restrictions make it impossible to run standalone. Calum would work... if I could get one. I don't really wanna do that. I'll just deal with what I have and try to optimise it for what it is. A street car, driven on the street with occasional track days. 440whp is plenty for low 11s anyway. Any faster and they require a roll cage etc.

Bummer. Does the MAF voltage drop off with torque or does it stay pegged? Surely maxing the MAF out can't be helping.

It's been mentioned a couple of times in this thread that the tune may well be the culprit
Can you send your ECU in to JWT with specific instructions?

put a nistune into a std ECU, looks std from the outside.
I cant believe that your attempting to run such big boost and power without being able to tune the car properly.

GET OFF OF THAT JWT!

Seriously, AT LEAST tune it with an SAFC. You're losing SOOOOO much power just by running a JWT base map. Anyone here will agree with me that you could clean up the fuel JUST in the WOT columns and gain 40whp.

Sounds like they Dynomite correction factor actually hurt your numbers. They shouldn't run correction factors if the weatherstation values are below laboratory grade testing. For instance, lab testing for SAE is 77 degrees F @ 29.23 inHg barometric pressure, and 0% humidity. If the correction factor was used for actual weatherstation values, then the dyno will hurt your results since it's a negative correction factor.

If you were to remove the correction factor from the Dynomite, I guarantee you'd see results MUCH closer to your second dyno selection.

Also, keep in mind that when the MAF max's power out, the powerband wouldn't follow suit. The ECU just doesn't know to correct beyond the 5.01V seen from the MAF.

And yes, you can spin tires @100mph in a full interior B14 Depends on the tires. I can break my Toyo's free in 4th .

Get a tunable Ecu, I had a similar curve, once I switched to one I play with, the car is a different animal,

Thanks for the advice guys. I was going to use the ECU until I hit a wall. I think I hit that wall now. The hp curve for this thing is really nice. Looks like a much bigger engine. Boost is so fast it is rediculous. It really is for this big of a turbo.

What do you guys think of this?

Go to the dyno and lower boost to say... 13psi or so. Raise the timing in small increments until I find where it stops making any more power. Let JWT know where that is. Send in computer to remove rev limiter and change timing map?

You guys think they would do it? The maf says there is a lot of air going in, my motor just doesnt know what to do with it. 400lb ft of torque is really good.

225-50r15 BFG Gforce. I can't break traction in 4th. But then again I haven't tried. Once the boost builds in 4th the turbo starts to surge. I could slam gears and spin possibly, but why?

My clutch is on the brink of annihilation lol. Full sintered iron disk.

I've seen cars without lsd not break tires loose in 3rd with 205-50r15 and making over 400whp.

I really would like to get rid of the surge. I never had it until I went TS. But I guess it is one small compromise to boost so quickly. And it does boost quickly.

I think what you should do is just get an SAFC. JWT to my recollection will not modify the timing and fuel maps to suit your build, since they can be held liable, even if you sign the disclosure agreement. Too risky for them to do business like that. Unless of course you know someone there that will do the maps to your liking.



It's strange that you have compressor surge. What type of BOV are you using? What about the wastegate you're using? The synapse BOV I'm using is PERFECT, no adjustability required, so they didn't include adjustability. there's more than just one vacuum line running to it, but I don't mind. You could barely crack the throttle and build boost and let off the gas, and the synapse is SUPER quick to respond. Absolutely no surge no matter what I do with the 30R.