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Thread: Yada yada, more dynos.

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Posts: 201-210 of 262
2010-03-12 04:04:56
#201
3rd gear is nice though. It is fun to effortlessly break the tires loose without even slamming a gear. Just rolling onto the throttle produces a fat burnout pegging the limiter all the way to 100mph. Is it possible to spin tires at 100mph with under 400whp in a B14 with full interior?

Last time I was disappointed I added 4* timing and made over 60whp increase. That could be my issue. But too much timing could make things go boom.
2010-03-12 04:12:27
#202
i would definitely do something in order to tune the car.
2010-03-12 05:14:29
#203
emissions restrictions make it impossible to run standalone. Calum would work... if I could get one. I don't really wanna do that. I'll just deal with what I have and try to optimise it for what it is. A street car, driven on the street with occasional track days. 440whp is plenty for low 11s anyway. Any faster and they require a roll cage etc.
2010-03-12 10:13:44
#204
Bummer. Does the MAF voltage drop off with torque or does it stay pegged? Surely maxing the MAF out can't be helping.

It's been mentioned a couple of times in this thread that the tune may well be the culprit
Can you send your ECU in to JWT with specific instructions?


Originally Posted by SE-Rican
Now I know I have said this before. Any chance the conservative JWT tune is the culprite?

Coheed do you have any type of piggy back?


Originally Posted by Benito
I agree The JWT tune is probably imperfect but Ashton is right about the elevation and don't forget the heat. Your 363hp setup was a UK 10:1 motor too no? Manny's old setup was pretty ridiculous. Insane.


Originally Posted by GT2871RBLUBIRD
well a base map is just that though, a platform to tune off of, if this car is running off a base map or i misread, i really feel the base map is your power problem.


Originally Posted by morgans432
I totally agree its crazy what a good tune can do to these motors. Your running a vet setup with a det tune. I know you said people made good power with it but everything is totally different from car to car. Where you live also has an effect so I would see what a good tune can do for you and go from there.


Originally Posted by morgans432
tune the car or get somebody to tune it. All that money on a new ex housing would sure be good for a good tune or an aem management


Originally Posted by SE-Rican
You would be very damn surprised to see how much of a difference a tune can have when you have 100% control of it.

Manny didn't sell his JWT stuff and buy a EMS for no reason The car was night and day with the two tunes.

I hate to keep on bringing up Manny's car but, it the only one I have had a lot of hands on with. My car will have a simillar set up.


Originally Posted by DDSC
Ok your car reacted that dramatically to 4* of timming. Not suprising really, BUT JUST IMAGINE WHAT A FULLY TUNABLE ECU WOULD DO!



once again this would be due to your tune! most mail order tunes have very conservative timing figures around 3000-5000rpm. if you are making the psi and not the power it is most likely your tune! get something that can FULLY tune your set up, whether it be a tunable remap or full standalone. You car WILL be much faster, spool harder and be a better car to drive all round.

I knew it wasn't your housing that was the core problem. You can not deny the difference a proper tune will make if 4* of dodgy ass dissy timing gives you 60whp!!!!! Think of the power band a tune will give you.
2010-03-12 12:43:17
#205
put a nistune into a std ECU, looks std from the outside.
I cant believe that your attempting to run such big boost and power without being able to tune the car properly.
2010-03-12 13:27:02
#206
GET OFF OF THAT JWT!

Seriously, AT LEAST tune it with an SAFC. You're losing SOOOOO much power just by running a JWT base map. Anyone here will agree with me that you could clean up the fuel JUST in the WOT columns and gain 40whp.

Sounds like they Dynomite correction factor actually hurt your numbers. They shouldn't run correction factors if the weatherstation values are below laboratory grade testing. For instance, lab testing for SAE is 77 degrees F @ 29.23 inHg barometric pressure, and 0% humidity. If the correction factor was used for actual weatherstation values, then the dyno will hurt your results since it's a negative correction factor.

If you were to remove the correction factor from the Dynomite, I guarantee you'd see results MUCH closer to your second dyno selection.

Also, keep in mind that when the MAF max's power out, the powerband wouldn't follow suit. The ECU just doesn't know to correct beyond the 5.01V seen from the MAF.

And yes, you can spin tires @100mph in a full interior B14 Depends on the tires. I can break my Toyo's free in 4th .
2010-03-12 13:29:32
#207
Get a tunable Ecu, I had a similar curve, once I switched to one I play with, the car is a different animal,
2010-03-12 14:01:52
#208
Thanks for the advice guys. I was going to use the ECU until I hit a wall. I think I hit that wall now. The hp curve for this thing is really nice. Looks like a much bigger engine. Boost is so fast it is rediculous. It really is for this big of a turbo.

What do you guys think of this?

Go to the dyno and lower boost to say... 13psi or so. Raise the timing in small increments until I find where it stops making any more power. Let JWT know where that is. Send in computer to remove rev limiter and change timing map?

You guys think they would do it? The maf says there is a lot of air going in, my motor just doesnt know what to do with it. 400lb ft of torque is really good.
2010-03-12 14:16:09
#209
Originally Posted by Cliff
GET OFF OF THAT JWT!
And yes, you can spin tires @100mph in a full interior B14 Depends on the tires. I can break my Toyo's free in 4th .


225-50r15 BFG Gforce. I can't break traction in 4th. But then again I haven't tried. Once the boost builds in 4th the turbo starts to surge. I could slam gears and spin possibly, but why?

My clutch is on the brink of annihilation lol. Full sintered iron disk.

I've seen cars without lsd not break tires loose in 3rd with 205-50r15 and making over 400whp.

I really would like to get rid of the surge. I never had it until I went TS. But I guess it is one small compromise to boost so quickly. And it does boost quickly.
2010-03-12 14:30:43
#210
Originally Posted by Coheed


Go to the dyno and lower boost to say... 13psi or so. Raise the timing in small increments until I find where it stops making any more power. Let JWT know where that is. Send in computer to remove rev limiter and change timing map?

You guys think they would do it? The maf says there is a lot of air going in, my motor just doesnt know what to do with it. 400lb ft of torque is really good.


I think what you should do is just get an SAFC. JWT to my recollection will not modify the timing and fuel maps to suit your build, since they can be held liable, even if you sign the disclosure agreement. Too risky for them to do business like that. Unless of course you know someone there that will do the maps to your liking.

Originally Posted by Coheed
225-50r15 BFG Gforce. I can't break traction in 4th. But then again I haven't tried. Once the boost builds in 4th the turbo starts to surge. I could slam gears and spin possibly, but why?

My clutch is on the brink of annihilation lol. Full sintered iron disk.

I've seen cars without lsd not break tires loose in 3rd with 205-50r15 and making over 400whp.

I really would like to get rid of the surge. I never had it until I went TS. But I guess it is one small compromise to boost so quickly. And it does boost quickly.


It's strange that you have compressor surge. What type of BOV are you using? What about the wastegate you're using? The synapse BOV I'm using is PERFECT, no adjustability required, so they didn't include adjustability. there's more than just one vacuum line running to it, but I don't mind. You could barely crack the throttle and build boost and let off the gas, and the synapse is SUPER quick to respond. Absolutely no surge no matter what I do with the 30R.
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