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Thread: WooHoo!!!

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Posts: 21-30 of 55
2009-09-04 06:58:11
#21
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
OK, so this is weird, but better. I posted the above and then started the car. I tried to keep it running for a few minutes, so I could watch conzult for a bit. What I realized was that the iacv duty was at 97%, so I shut it off and grabbed a screwdriver. I found that the IACV was all the way open, so I twisted it down all the way and back open about 1.5 turns. This time when I started the car it ran much much better, but still rough. So I decided to see what happened if I tried to drive it, and about two houses down the street it seemed to iron out several wrinkles and ran much better. I cruised around the block on very little throttle and then, once I got home I let off the throttle and let it idle. Now it idled much better, but it was hunting a ton, between 500 and 1500rpms. The consult said that the timing was going back and forth from 5* to 18*. So I tried putting it into timing mode, but no change. It just continued hunting up and down like crazy. I already made the recommended changes in the timing maps to account for my cams and try to help it not hunt, but this was silly. What is more concerning to me is the fact that it wouldn't go into timing mode. I was under the impression that the consult method of getting into timing mode was pretty definite. Any ideas?

Mike, I got that bin, but didn't load it once I drove around the block. I really think that the car is on the right map. The throttle felt great, and felt like it would boost, but I didn't dare, not knowing where my timing is.

Any more thoughts from anyone? I think at this point I know that adequate air is getting through via the iacv, and I'm confident that there's not a fuel delivery problem, and I'm thinking electronics somewhere. Oh, and I still have no error codes from the ECU. Thoughts?


Sounds like the timing is going to be the issue. Will it not go into timing mode the old fashioned way?
2009-09-04 11:59:05
#22
It could still be the tune, as the warm-up cycle is much richer than the typical running cycle. Once it warmed up things get better, but not great...
2009-09-04 15:23:52
#23
I can't get it into timing mode either way, just jumps all over the place. I tried pushing the dist back and forth a few degrees either way, but no change. Some searching revealed opinions that it's the IACV. I just don't see how that can be the case as it came out of the package brand new. I'm not going to be able to mess with it for a few days, so maybe sitting a while will make it start working!
2009-09-04 16:05:15
#24
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
[email]dr.jfowler@gmail.com[/email] is my addy. with the key on and the engine off, the tps registers .58v and the maf registers .34v. Inj pulse reads 1.79msec, battery is at 11.44v.

I kept all the sensors off my DE, including the head water temp sensor. I put on a brand new out of the box IACV. I'll try to get the fuel rail pulled off, just in case one of them is leaking down into the intake manifold, but I can't smell or find any fuel on there.



tps voltage is a little high and out of range. .55 volts is the max for the tps and they seem to work best when set to .48volts. sound like you need to do a hard reset of all the stored values in the ecu. you should be able to do this from the ecu since your running a calum r/t. I have not used a r/t but I believe it to be very similar to nissan data scan. once you force a relearn you will be able to set base timing and idle.
2009-09-04 17:50:03
#25
Yeah, I think I can force a reset in EcuTalk. I haven't tried that, but I guess it would make sense. I think I have the tps twisted as far as it will to to lower the voltage. Think I need a new one? I'll add that to my to-do list when I get back home.
2009-09-04 19:31:10
#26
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
Yeah, I think I can force a reset in EcuTalk. I haven't tried that, but I guess it would make sense. I think I have the tps twisted as far as it will to to lower the voltage. Think I need a new one? I'll add that to my to-do list when I get back home.


if thats as low as the tps will go than you need to replace it. although you can bend the arm on the tps and get it to a lower range and it will work in a pinch. I have had this sort of idle issue before on a few different cars and a hard reset always made things better and allowed me to set the timing and base idle. its usually more than one thing that causes these kinds of problems.
2009-09-05 05:11:04
#27
I agree that it's probably multiple things, but I don't feel like I can do anything until I get the timing set. It is backfiring a lot and acting really strange when it's cold, which also makes me think my maf might have had it. Anyone got a TPS they'll sell me?
2009-09-05 14:02:44
#28
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
I agree that it's probably multiple things, but I don't feel like I can do anything until I get the timing set. It is backfiring a lot and acting really strange when it's cold, which also makes me think my maf might have had it. Anyone got a TPS they'll sell me?


just use the ecu talk and you will find the probem. its very handy to be able to see all the sensors real time and you can see if they are in the correct range per the fsm.
2009-09-05 15:12:12
#29
Well, half the problem is that I'm still trying to understand the software too, and it's tough when everything is jumping around like crazy, lol!
2009-09-05 15:43:28
#30
Originally Posted by dr.fowler
Well, half the problem is that I'm still trying to understand the software too, and it's tough when everything is jumping around like crazy, lol!


I see. I always thought ecu talk pretty much looked like nissan data scan which has 12 monitors(gauges) on the screen at once. you could also just data log the car for a minutes while its idling or trying too and look at the data after.
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