Thread: New DET install. Can't boost. High idle.

W10 DET
JWT ECU
Plugs gapped to .28
Walbro 255lph
Avenier BOV
370 Injectors


Finally got the car running! However, I got some problems as well. The idle will not go any lower than 1100-1300 rpms with the idle screw ALL the way in. I can't get it to go into timing mode either. No CEL's are popping up.

Next, I get no boost in 1st gear until 4000 or later. Once I hit 2nd it spools up around 3400 or later. If I go deeper into the gas it breaks up around 4500 then continues.

I ran a pressure test and at 10psi there is one tiny hiss that I can not locate.

The bov is open during idle, is that normal?

I don't have a boost gauge and I plan on getting one tomorrow. Once I get that in I will let you know what it boosts to.

Do you think the BOV should be open come on man.

Turbo is new to me. I'm learning as quick as I can. I've done plenty of swaps, but this is new territory to me.

Anyways, no I don't think it should be open.

is the throttle plate screw allowing the throttle to close properly. also dont try to screw the aac valve all in to get a lower idle that will only work so far.

have you checked for leaks, boost or vacum?

The throttle screw looks ok. The throttle plate does not appear any more open than it should. It does not bind or anything..

I did a pressure test setting my compressor to 10 psi on the regulator. I did have a hose that had a very slow leak, but that was it. Not much change in idle after that fix.

TPS is set to .46v

I am using the dist that came with the motor it was the same as the one on my DE. I may switch back to that dist for the breaking up.

find out why your bov is open at idle. is your air regulator plugged in? when i didnt have had mine by passed my idle would be about 1k and i couldnt get in timing mode.

unplug your tps and set the base idle with your iac. then unplug the batt and reset the ecu..

oh sorry just saw that it was all the way in. have you tried moving the throttle stop

The BOV should never be open unless you let off the gas and are in Vac. Any other time it should be closed so that you can see boost/build boost.

Three things. Do not boost the car at all until you get the boost gauge. Do not boost the car at all until you get a wide band. Third if you hear a his then you have a boost leak which will cause a high idle sometimes. Fix all that stuff and get back to us. Use smoke to find the boost leak. Or I hear spraying carb cleaner on everything that sees vac and boost will find your leak as your idle will raise once youve sprayed over the spot that sucking in air where its not supped to be sucking in air.

I was waiting for someone to bring up the gauge and WB. Those are on the way. In the meantime, I am going to work on the idle and BOV today and see if I can get her under control.

i thought the stock BOV was known to leak at idle and cruise. thats one of the reasons you have to run it recirculated if your running stock draw thru maf setup. that would cause your leaking meterd air or bringing in unmetered air if your bov is not recirculated. which would cause idle problems along with other things. this is all out the window though for your problem if you do have it recirculated.