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Thread: brian crower cams on gtir

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Posts: 11-20 of 30
2009-07-31 14:52:28
#11
well its all in the build,tune and parts, if he has a 2871r, i would recomend since the turbo is going to hold strong and the .ar is going to give him some top end, to go with a low to mid range cam, hell even the HKS step 1 is good for low to mid range, good for up to 400whp, and doesnt require springs or retainers to do so. ive seen ppl with good gains from them, and getting a cam that is going to benifit him in the low to mid range is going to benifit him overall.
2009-08-01 02:11:51
#12
so would you say the bc2s are bottom to mid cams?
2009-08-01 09:20:53
#13
yeah i wouldnt sya they are bad cams, they are good for street applications, you dont want to go too mild yet too aggresive either becvuase you can run into some issues if they are too aggresive like stage 3 cams and such, but you want a aggressive enough cam over stock that is goin to make a powerband difference
2009-08-01 19:12:48
#14
yeah I don't wanna go with the stage 3s way too agressive for what im building, U really can't beat the price for the stage 2s either..they are excellent at that price. Any idea what the lift and duration is on stock gtir cams?
2009-08-01 19:22:44
#15
from calums camshaft list on the other forum the gtir show

in 248 10.0mm
ex 232 10.0mm

most of the time SOME stage 2 and 3 are partial to having higher RPM gains verses lower to mid range gains. stage 2 are more partial to mid range rather than a stage 3 for higher rpm hence why some camshafts dont need springs and retainers and other do require springs and retainers, its because they will utilize higher rpm to get their gains, also some have higher lift so they require the springs and retainers to not float a valve or other reason, from the higher lift ect
2009-08-01 22:39:02
#16
K. I know another guy that is running his on stock springs and retainers but its a regular sr20 so I think I will go the same route with mine.
2009-09-19 16:10:10
#17
are the BC stage 3's for the gti-r made to work with solid lifters? how can they fit the s13 head as well as the gti-r, the s13 uses hydro lifters the gtir is solid pivots, no?
2009-09-19 16:22:14
#18
you dont want to pick a cam that contradicts your power band in order to change it. you want to pick a cam that compliments your powerband. if you do this you will end up with greater gains overall...
2009-09-21 17:05:05
#19
Originally Posted by cory
you dont want to pick a cam that contradicts your power band in order to change it. you want to pick a cam that compliments your powerband. if you do this you will end up with greater gains overall...


Agreed 100%
2009-09-21 17:17:41
#20
I'll chime in. I still love my BC2 cams. I run a t28 which is smaller than your 2871r but what I noticed the most was how hard it pulls from 4800rpm all the way to redline. The smaller turbo's tend to fall off toward the higher rpm and that is the reason I bought cams. I hit 18lbs of full boost by 4000rpm so down low is nice and then when I get to about 5k its like I hit vtec. Pretty much that's when the tires break loose in 3rd. If I were running a larger turbo I would go with springs retainers and BC3's for the same price as s4's any day. Just for a drop in cam my verdict on the BC2's is that they are a great cam at a great price. Also keep in mind I have no cam gears I just dropped them in. The car hasn't been dyno tuned for the cams either. I tuned the car 3 days before I put the cams in on the dyno lol I wanted some more power. I just made sure the a/f's were in check with my wideband. If I were to play with cam gears on the dyno I'm sure there is power there to be found but is 5 or 6 whp really worth hours on the dyno?
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