Thread: more maf problems

likethemovies sent me a .bin as a last resort, said my vq map was way off. I tried it...still have the same problem.

NDS says with the maf unplugged the car is rich, with the maf plugged in it's lean...wrong bin?

I'm about ready to sell the mother****er

so, i looked at the wiring diagrams for the b14. the only thing that should even affect the dizzy is: the ecu, and a resistor in the wiring harness. grn/red and something else. None of the other wires to the dizzy meet any other wires besides the 12v wire which runs to all kinds of stuff but is just a power wire.

Some people said that the maf affects spark...BS (I'm getting intermittent spark on all cylinders, #4 sparks the best.)
The dizzy runs basically on it's own besides the ecu pulling timing etc.

anyone ever had problems out of this resistor?

What is your setup again, and do you have a stock ecu?

Why are you jumping between two different issues?

MAF issues have nothing to do with SPARK issues.

Spark issues/intermittent: Bad CAS, rotor, cap, plugs, plug wires, bad mechanical timing, incorrect ignition timing.

A VQ table being off could cause your car to run rough/incorrectly, but doesn't have anything to do with spark.

I think i have two different issues. And there's apparently more to intermittent spark than everything you mentioned. I agree maf doesn't do anything with spark.

calum ecu, 520's @ 3 bar, n62 maf

That's just it, it's a distributor that is cranked by the exhaust cam. power is provided via your harness connection. Signal is sent to the ECU. Either you have spark, or you don't. The ecu will retard timing if in safe mode, and only retard it. It will not touch your timing/spark at idle.

Have you even replaced your distributor yet? Cap and rotor look flawless? CAS look acceptable?

yes, yes, and yes. What's the voltage to the dizzy supposed to be?

This is my thought...The resistor's function is to reduce the flow of electric current. Meaning that if you have a 12v system and you need only 5 volts to power your dizzy, the resistor will reduce the 12v to 5v. So, if i power one side of the resistor at 12v the other side should only have 5v, if it doesn't work correctly then I'll replace it.

and i do have spark...but sometimes I don't, so it's not "you either have it or you don't." It'll spark and quit, rev up a lil' spark some more and quit. NDS shows my timing jumping all over, I mentioned this on another thread but got no response, I don't know what this means.

Sounds like a Crank angle sensor issue. I had the same exact issue with mine, just ended up replacing the dizzy and the issue was gone. The issue was slop in the CAS, coupled with oil on the disc that would hamper the optic's ability to read the CAS.

well i would hope it's not a bad dizzy i got it from andreas.

Well i did some research on resistors last night...

Resistors
very informative article.

So I decided to run my own test. I put my multimeter on voltage and put the neg to neg on the battery and put the pos lead from the meter to the output side of the resistor. The input side of the resistor I touched to the pos post on the battery. Sure enough, there was no drop in voltage. 12.44 in-12.44 out. So, the resistor is bad. I called nissan to source one and they said to replace the whole harness (very helpful aren't they?) I also checked for continuity at 20k it was 2.4 which translates to 0.024 which also confirms toast.

So I'm thinking that the dizzy is probably a 5 or 6 volt system and I had 12.44v running to it which would explain why two dizzy's in a row went bad, fried coils.

I'm hoping this explanation makes sense, it's my last hope.