Originally Posted by
jere It shouldn't be a mystery if you test it ie vise grips to the hose going to the air reg, if that doesn't fix it and it is an ecu/bad wiring issue unplugging it will make it better by a good deal
Wasn't the air regulator or the AAC valve. I feel it's an ECU programming issue. Last night after chillin at a restaurant for a few hours, started the car and the fans came on immediately. GOTTA be something with the ECU.
EDIT: Forgot to mention. Pressure tested the system to 25psi, and found that intercooler leak as mentioned by Jen above. Hooked up a vacuum pump, started the car, and checked vacuum. Vacuum sits SOLID at 20inHg. First time I've laid hands on an SR that pulls a full 20inHg vacuum
Soo..... Other ideas for organization's sake:
You as well as a few other people mentioned disconnecting the AAC to determine if cold idle improves/warm idle improves.
IACV adjustment screw does in fact affect idle, just not much.
Jen mentioned something about the car idling MUCH better with TPS disconnected whether cold or warm.
He also stated that the o2 sensor seemed to not report anything, when TPS was connected and car was revved to around 3K or whatever. With TPS disconnected, o2 reads fine.
I forget what the other symptoms are, but those are what I remember. The idle is HORRIBLE on cold start. Definitely have to keep the foot on the gas to get it to start and keep it running. Warm idle isn't that great either, sounds like a cammed car, with stock DET cams installed. I'm thinking possibly mechanical timing issues, but seems not to be the problem because the car runs great under load. Just idle issues.