Thread: turbo lag under 3000rpms

a friend of mine, told me that it´s normal that my car get´s only 5psi cause my wg its setted to 7spi and i´m using a large fmic, the 2 missing psi fade´s into the fmic, it´s that right?




i used this method and evertyng seems to be ok

Nooo thats terribly wrong. All a huge fmic does is increase turbo lag, if your loosing PSI in the FMIC then you have a hole in it...

thanks men, i´ll check the intercooler to see if i find any leak.

another friend told me that i´ll see full boost in the range of 4800-6000 rpms, not before, and i just rev my car to 4800 by now and get the constants 5psi.

btw today i´ll installed a cheap manual boost controller from ebay on my friends 98 eclipse gst, (i also have one) and that piece of **** doesnt controll anything, the boost goes to 20psi and we couldnt down the amount of boost.

one like this


i wonder if any of you have used one of this with your car??

a manual boost controller is just a bleeder valve to trick the wastegate. I have made one from Home Depot parts for a DSM and it works up to 20 lbs, and everything in between. Never used one of those, lol.

You should see full boost before 4800 rpm. Especially 7psi. What kind of exhaust are you running?

Try running the car without a manual boost controller, that one might be leaking or something hehe

I beg to differ. http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/16477-basics-boost-control-wastegates-how-turn-up-boost.html

It depends where your gauge is getting a boost signal from and where you wastegate is getting it's signal from. If the gauge gets signal from after the intercooler and the wastegate gets signal from before the intercooler you can see the drop in pressure across the intercooler. It can be as high as 2 psi, yes.

I don't think this is your problem though.

i`m runing a 2.5 inch downpipe to the presilencer, from there(where the curves start) to the mufler its a 2 1/4 inch.

i havent installed my mbc, the one that we put on was on my friends eclipse

that`s a great info.
i`m getting the boost signal from the fpr, and the wastegate and bov from the line in the thortle boddy that goes to the canister.

should i let the wastege get it`s signal alone and hook up in other place the vaccum source to the bov?

I should have been more specific.... the DIY(home depot) manual boost control is just a bleeder, I understand there are better ways to do it. I know you are just trying to help, same with me. I don't have time to read that whole post right now but I will later. For running lower boost levels, a bleeder type should suffice.