Thread: Think my car's going on the dyno tonight...

^Cool. I'm curious about this situation as well.

Just imagine this for now:

You have a hole that's around 5/16" in diameter. You now take a fitting and shove it in the hole, after you drill two holes into the fitting that are roughly a little larger than a dental pick's tip. You've just created a HUGE restriction, therefore you have high oil pressure. Now take that fitting back out and you've just lost a TON of oil pressure, becuase there's no longer a restriction there. Path of least resistance, right?

Pics to follow what I'm saying later.

That is weird, because my oil pressure isn't really high either. I get about 20-25psi at idle, and about 40psi at 2000rpm this summer with a 20w50 oil. Not incredibly high, but not low like yours either. What is you idle set at? I have mine set at 1000rpm to keep the engine vibration down from the solid mounts.

^Coheed, you running any aftermarket pulleys?

~1100rpm to keep the lopey idle of the BC STG 3's at bay, and from rattling me to death with the prothane mounts all round.

ouch, then ya that would be really really low pressure.

I am running Gspec crank pulley btw. Vibration isn't incredibly bad, but the solid mounts make some things start rattling over time. Things that were never noticed, so I bumped up the idle to compensate a bit. I have a solid 1000rpm idle now, and about the only bug I have yet to work out is the slight bounce in the idle I get every now and then when the motor gets really warm. Not sure what causes that, but it is fine until I beat on her in 100*+ heat for a while.

Hope you fix her up tekkie.

1100 isnt bad, what type of air fuels are you seeing at idle? i have noticed if you get her a little rich in the fuel map at say 0rpm-1500rpm it seems to steady out loopy cams, i know my hks step 2 are really hard to get a nice steady idle, larger spark plug gap along with richer fuel map in the idle area really helped calm them down.

also coheed i too have that issue, when my car get warmed up after say a highway run or whatever i get that slight bounce and ive been doing extensive things to try and get that to calm down, everytihng from working with the aac valve to see if that steady's out the idle from bouncing if slightly opened, from cracking the throttle plate to give it a slight consistant rev then adjusting the tps to think the tps is closed, from air fuel mixture settings in the fuel map, to raising base timing in the idle range to lowering the base timing in the iginiton map. what i found to work pretty decent is find a sweet spot in the air fuel ratio in the fuel map at idle, could be rich or lean depending on the cams, then a larger spark plug gap seemed to smoothe out my idle in general, basicly i ended up with a mid 15/low 16 air fuel 1.2mm spark plug gap... now my idle is pretty stready 1100rpm also, with a +50/-50 rpm bounce which isnt bad becuae its a steady idle with a slightly bounce, as before it was more like a +200/-200 boucy so really irratic....it seems with aftermarket managments along with larger injectors and cams, it really takes alot of tuning the iginiton and fuel map along with working on the air fuels at idle to get a nice clean steady idle, right now i think its ALMOST perfect and i hate to mess with it lol in fear the bounce might rear its ugly face.

14.5~14.8 A/F at idle.

My tune is perfect, not going to touch it or fiddle with anything else related to the tune. 38~41mpg on the highway and 400+whp. NO WAY am I touching it.

Thanks for the input, though.

what air fuels are you seeing at cuise speeds, like 55-65mph? more on the lean side with that kinda mpg?

Pics:

Squirter


Where the squirter sits in the block:


Hole in block: